That airbox In mandatory if you are going to any Rotax races, anyway i highly doubt you will fell or see any gains In laptime if you change it.
The blue oil In the filter is either from when the filter was new, or added last time it was cleaned, there are dirrerent opinions on the filteroil, we use a very light coat on outside.
you can wash the air filter and yes its filter oil that im seen on the picture but its to mutch !!
the filter can be wash with water and cleaner like soap and then dry in the sun . Sometimes as a quicker method i wash them with gasoline but thats bad for the filter in the long run .
after its cleaned up you have to apply just a little filter oil to the outside skin of it before installation
Dude, if youâre not attached to any regulations you can try anything you want. Get a different airbvox entirely if you want. Put a big bore kit on⌠give the engine to a tuner and tell them do what they want
Given that youâre buying used tires, running a hard compound tire to save money, and havenât been on the track yet, I would say that figuring out a ram air intake should be pretty low on your priority list.
The short answer is no, I havenât tried it in a max, and Iâd say very few have⌠so we might as well speak about ram air in general since itâs very interesting.
I canât speak to Rotax Max specifically, it I can tell you that the position on the KZ airbox is mostly ergonomics for choking convenience. Most of the airboxes are reversible.
Ram air is not trivial to implement effectively on a two stroke carbureted engine. You will see examples of it on superkarts. (You might already be aware, it for others reading that are notâŚ.) In order for it to work you need to have an air bleed between the airbox and float chamber.
When I did back to back testing (KZ2) on a road course (average speed 95MPH, top 115/118) flipping the airbox around made no noticeable difference. Other than hitting my elbow on the airbox trumpets
For whatâs its worth, the most common hop
up for an FR125 is head volume.
So anyway, not really an answer to your question perse, but some nuggets to ponder.
Honestly, the best thing about the Rotax is that it is âfast enoughâ, while being cheap (pump gas and 50:1 oil ratio - that alone cuts the operating costs to a fraction of other 2-cycle engines) and reliable to operate (i.e. just turn laps), just as it comes out of the box. Assuming that just turning laps is your goal, Iâd just run it as it is, and focus on making yourself faster. It really is the ultimate 2-cycle karting package for âjust turning lapsâ.
But - if you want to play with airboxes, go find somebody throwing out one of the original FR125 Max airboxes, and hack it up however you want⌠I donât think there are any real performance differences between those old ugly things and the current less ugly ones anyways⌠at least the current ones have some value. As James said, ram air really isnât a thing with these.
But why change head volume if your goal is just to turn laps on the cheap? With decreased head volume, something will have to be given up - whether itâs running more expensive and better fuel, or reliability.
If you want a faster motor, why mess with the Rotax? Iâd just buy an OK⌠thatâd be real fast!
yeah yeah, it where just come mind spins, and im leaving it as it is. When it gets boring i will try to find a Iame Super 175 some time. Thanks for al the answers
So the reason it wonât work is the rotax reeds wonât handle the air pushed in they flutter ⌠the kz you can force air into because they have fine wire fingers that press on to the reeds so you can force air into it ⌠even if you modify your airbox with bigger holes itâll bog under load it will work on the stand but not under load the are very temperamental with all airbox mods
You can not force air into a rotax max cause the reed valves flutter they are not stiff enough or have the extra wire fingers to hold reeds shut like the TM kz engine
