I’m sure there’s some magic incantation for how to make this work, but I can’t figure it out. This is for a 2023 OTK rookie chassis. I got the axle key’d on the inside so the sprocket is taken care of. I then bought sidepod extenders which add about 55mm to accommodate the engine. However, with a Hilliard Flame mounted outboard, the chain interferes with the seat strut. If I flip the clutch to inboard, the clutch interferes with the seat.
I think if I had a 75mm extension, rather than 55mm, I could make it work. PKT sells an extender where you have to drill the holes yourself. Presumably I could drill to any length I want, but… I’m not looking forward to drilling 8 holes into 28mm thick metal.
Can you move the seat to the left to accommodate the clutch? If the driver is small-ish then you’ll want to do this anyways to balance the engine weight
Mounted a half dozen or so this year and the PKT extension gives you what you need. Yep, have to drill them though. Drill press helps but not exactly in all toolboxes. Lol
Mounted all of ours with outboard driver on the clutch.
It is tight but works well. I’d suggest slightly over drilling the outer holes on your extensions so they aren’t too tight for chassis set up purposes and for a little cushion for as tight as the nerf will be to the engine still.
We mount engine first as far left as feasible then do the extensions last.
Makes sense, shame it’s such a pain for one of the most common chassis.
I think the PKT if you push in all the way is also about 55mm. Does 75mm sound about right, where you need to leave some space and not push the bars fully in?
Following up in case anyone finds this thread later.
Side pod extender adding 65-70mm of clearance works well paired with an Odenthal mount (which adds quite a bit of height to help the chain clear the bottom rail). This leaves about 11mm of clearance to the seat strut.
The odenthal mount holes are roughly 7.5mm increments apart so it might have worked one hole over, but I didn’t want to chance it. From Dan’s picture he probably had it one notch closer, or maybe his clutch is a few mm thinner. A few mm makes all the difference here.
It was a pain to drill straight without a press or vise to hold it down. It was easiest drilling it mounted to the kart and use the kart’s holes as a guide, drill slowly and spray some oil every so often. Still, I destroyed at least a dozen drill bits in the process.
You don’t have any paint scraping off the seat strut? Given the clutch is slightly free floating, and the chain is slightly loose, it just seemed too close especially as the chassis flexes…
