New CRG Road Rebel 2022 - Shifter Kart Handling Help?

Dear sirs,

Editing the post after suggestions from Andy Digiusto…

Driver details:

IPK Chassis: 28-30mm tube

CRG RR Chassis: 32mm tube
VEN13 Braking system.


Yellow MG or Evinco Red (SM Compound).
Always trying to run close to 12psi hot tires.

Was slower with a Honda (same engine) - The Iame is just a new engine that I have used for one day and didn’t have time to test it with brand new tires.

So yes, Ive fallen into the temptation of buying the new CRG Road Rebel 2022 chassis directly from MondoKart, Italy (They are good friends of mine). But I got to be honest, we are still struggling to understand the chassis. Need experts help.

Just a little overview, was one of the leaders for the first round of the championship with a OK1 chassis and now struggling with the CRG (0.4 off the pace).

2 months after assembling the chassis, I am still struggling to do the same lap times that I used to do with my other OK1 chassis (IPK), which I honestly thought was not good but now I realized that it was a very good chassis.

So as everyone knows, RR chassis` are entirely 32mm tubes and my personal perception is that it is a hard/rigid tube, that is so that I had to use a soft axle with the chassis for the first race I had to do with it. Also, due to the different geometry in the front of the chassis (for example, the standard front bar of 30mm doesn’t fit in and we needed to cut it to 25mm in order to make it fit in the chassis).

Having that said, here goes my first question to the experts… Would this be a try to cut out the necessity of a front bar or due to the fact that CRG thinks that the chassis is already hard enough? Currently, I am using it without the front stabilizer bar - But, does anyone have any other point of view?

Another comment/question is that I also bought the Tillett T11T seat to replace the original one and it quite didn’t fit in well. After running in the original seat, installing the T11T and then getting back to the original seat, we found that the T11T made us lose around 0.3s to 0.5s per lap - Which made me realize that the original seat (hard) fits the chassis better. The only issue I have with the seat is that they sent me a seat size number 4 when I am somewhere in between 2 and 3 - Best option here would buy the original one with the correct size, or go with the Tillet T11 or T8?

My feeling is that with the T11T mostly on the braking points, I just couldn’t handle the kart well.

I was running with the Honda CR125 category but now after losing contact with the leaders of the championship, we decided to give it a chance to the IAME 175 Super Shifter.

We always use MG Yellows or Evinco Reds.

These are general comments, I am racing in Mexico so the amount of rubber on the track is not that high.

Any comments or suggestions are very well welcomed.


Was the OK1 mixed 30/32? On the CRG, VEN11 or VEN13? I’m not a super expert on those 2 chassis, but I think you need to be more specific than just being slower overall, so experts here can give you some tips…meaning are you seeing any symptom like hopping, sliding, over/under steer. What tire pressure are you using, weight/height of the driver etc…front geometry? Same track? When you say slower, are you comparing OK1 with a honda VS CRG with 175 Iame?

It would be great to understand where you are actually losing time too (hard braking? fast corners? slow corners?etc). Otherwise it’s very difficult to pinpoint what’s going on.

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