Got to looking at Birel’s new S19 shifter chassis earlier. Came across this new (to me at least, I havent seen this before) feature in the camber/caster pills.
Wondering if this would be adaptable to the 2022 birel based shifter chassis I have? Nothing much seems to have changed on the chassis in the years since mounting wise from what I can see.
It should unless they changed the hole spacing for the set screws or the OD of the hole going through the c-section.
As much as I like the sniper system (similar to this). The fun/novelty has worn off. I’d rather go back to eccentric pills.
Can you elaborate further on why you say this?
Id assume its because of the fact that they like to move around even though you seem to tighten them down 
My buddy picked up a DR and ive been getting to mess with these… again and again it seems lol
There must be a reason why other brands like TBkart, Mad Croc or Birel haven’t moved from eccentric pills, though I guess it comes down to “It still works”
Set it and forget it.
I’ve tried the sniper system and a couple others similar. They have a good amount of play. Set caster/camber on the stand. Go turn some laps. Come back and it’s moved. Kinda defeats the purpose of being able adjust in fine increments if it just moves. I now set them knowing they will move a certain delta.
On eccentrics I adjust camber on the top pill. And caster changes with the bottom pill. Makes both changes the easiest without full disassembly.
Cons are buying and carrying a bunch of different pills, which can be expensive. But the effort to make a camber/caster change to me is equal or less than a sniper system.
One of the best systems for independent adjust in my opinion is the CC-solver from Righetti. Anymore I’m just using the stock eccentrics the Croc comes with.
Tried it while testing. Better but it still has more play than I’d like.
In my opinion Easy caster is the best system.
The CC-solver is also good.
The pilles is tried and tested, downside is that when you change caster you also change camber and the other way around, and you really neede to have several sets of pills.
The sniper system is not my favorite, they tend to move around when adjusting.
I’m curious about people finding play in the sniper systems. That hasn’t been my experience and I haven’t had the problem of things loosening or changing. I have some Righetti karts that the chassis is not stable, but on the Maranello they did not change all year. I’ve found the system very easy and quick.
I’ve also never had a problem with snipers moving. Had plenty crack though.
The RR system is probably the most robust but has limited range.
I find the adjustability of the variable systems useful when developing a frame, but for race to race use the standard pills are just fine.
I think no one has just copied sniper because they still have an active patent.
I had some alternatives made, tested them here and the UK. Worked great but not great enough that anyone asked to buy them lol. I remember when sniper first came out he gave them away to the team I was working for at the time.
I don’t know. I’ve tried everything and tightened things in different order. They always move in terms of camber.
My Bremer KZ (PCR) had the sniper system back in 2012. It would always move no matter what we did
What class is this in? If its 206 compared to KZ, it could be that the KZ is putting a lot more load into them with the front brakes and grippier tires.
While caster is so fundamental to the kart, it’s actually not something I play with all that much. The baseline is usually good, so I don’t see the need to have a ton of pills - can usually get by with a couple. I had a kart republic with the “parolin” style system which was good, but I still prefer eccentrics. Like @NikG said, its probably only needed when developing to have a wide range of adjustment.
I haven’t tried it, but the Tecno system seems like it would be robust. This is on the S30 model - the TR30 model uses eccentrics, and is what is most commonly sold. Check out pages 13-16: https://www.tecnokart.com/10/files/owners_manual.pdf
The CRG system has grooves the caster adjustment locks into, so it does not drift. Camber could theoretically drift a little (laterally opposed set screws like the IPK CCS), but I haven’t had an issue. I never had an issue with the IPK system either, but the CRG does seem more robust because of those teeth.
I hate dealing with all the washers for the spindles, and I’ve never had an issue with the two systems I’ve used so far.
That’s just not true. That’s the system I’m currently using. It still moves some. Camber is worse, but the caster still shifts.
The tolerance stack up is just too large in the whole system. Even with the serrated teeth it changes.
It may be the toothed pieces settling or something else in the system. I always get a reduced caster reading after some laps.
Maybe there’s something to the tightening order? I loosen the kingpin, then loosen the camber screws, move the caster adjuster, fingertighten the camber screws, tighten the kingpin about 90%, fully tighten the camber screws, then tighten the kingpin the rest of the way.
I don’t feel anything that feels like a tolerance stackup problem with mine, so maybe yours got a bad stackup that I lucked out on or that you drew the short straw on? Also, is your camber plate fully tight and clean? I know you are fastidious about your kart, so I’m really just asking that to cover all the bases, but if the caber plate mounting screws are not perfectly tight then I could see it doing what you describe perfectly.
We used this all year and while the stack of washers is a bit tedious to deal with if you are trying to change ride heights, the ease of adjustment and how fine adjustment you can do was worth the trade-off for me.
Not a perfect system, but I did like being able to dial in or out very small increments of geometry. There were races where I was flipping back and forth 1mm on caster depending on track conditions.
The eccentric is fine though too! I used the eccentric pills for years with no issues, mainly because it’s dead simple. The lack of independent adjustment is a minor issue but nothing I ever felt like I was missing out on.
Either system works well, just depends on your use-case.
I’ve tried it all. I even removed the paint on the C’s to make sure it’s not that.
My guess is they can’t stand up to the braking forces and move a bit.
