New to kt need help

Kt100 with l and t wet clutch just ran for first time today tuning help and quesiton if time for rebuild i guess. I drained l and t and refilled with red l and t oil but just sitting over night leaked. Then leaked for first session also while out clutch slipped a lot,while leaking,after that clutch ran great and barely leaked. Also gearing is off i am blue max kart club in davis ca. I am 11 front 75 rear. Thanks for any info!

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Welcome sir! And is Blue Max your home track for next year? Are you part of the Blue Max Facebook group? I’ll look for you on Facebook and add you to our F100 Piston Port specific group, or request to join it. I ran 10:83 all year, my buddy 11:92. My buddy, his L&T leaked from the middle, where the starter nut goes, when it was overfilled with oil. Not sure about rebuilding those.

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Yes we just signed up yesterday for the year! Man we are way off gearing wise. My sons must be also we are all on 11 fronts but not bigger then 80 rear. One on a hpv/kpv the other a iame kids 2 stroke unsure of model think it like a 60cc look similar to the kpv shape.

My wife and son are seth davies and robin melton will ensure they add on

I’m pretty sure most wet clutches leak oil by design. Or can someone with more wet clutch knowledge chime in?

Well welcome to KartPulse and Blue Max! Like TJ said, I do think they inherently leak some by design.

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Ok cool thanks! Yea ran great once was warmed up just wasnt sure if it was normal

No prob! And I sent you a PM btw.

Only place that would be acceptable to leak would be at starter nut and that probably because it to full. Anywhere else would be a leaky gasket.

Can i replace gasket without damaging anything and where would i find said gasket? Thanks everyone for all the help!

Yes you can. I generally buy my Yamaha stuff from Comet Kart Sales. Really none of our good West Coast vendors have any Yamaha stuff.

Agree about comet kart. They have been around a long time, every time I called I got great customer service.

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Do you have a Mychron or other RPM gauge? ON a short sprint track you want the motor to turn 14,200-14,400.

I race KT100’s in the midwest and it’s REALLY rare to see someone racing on a wet clutch around here. I think I’ve seen one in 2 years. I’d consider ditching the wet setup and going with a dry. None of the clutches for a KT100 are exactly low maintenance but the wet ones specifically are a pain to keep up with. I’ve been happy with my L&T dry clutches.

I think I would disagree with that. I ran a 3 disk L&t wet clutch for a whole season with zero issues. Just changed oil every other race. Next season went to a 2 disk dry L&t. Still a great clutch but went through disks quicker and seemed like I was always adjusting stall speed. Saw almost no difference in lap times. I would certainly say if your not doing in actual racing but just turning laps I would stick with the wet clutch.

I do not have any computer set up currently. I am in the market for something. My family all have mychron 4 so i understand those. And i heard the wet clutches best for big guys and i am a big guy so no problem changing oil it easy and fast just want to fix leak. Thanks for all the great info!

There are only 4 spots for a leak, the starter nut, 2 fill holes and the rubber gasket around the outside. Most likely cause is the starter nut due to it being overfilled.

[quote=“teo, post:15, topic:3022”]
I do not have any computer set up currently.[/quote]

Practically anything will run the software, so there’s that.

Yes, a 3 disk wet clutch is better for a heavier weight 390+. Also when I filled mine I used a plastic syringe (the kind that they give for you to give a baby medicine.) put the fill hole at about 8 o’clock and squeeze in just until it starts to come out of hole.