tru idk i havent visited in a year (not alowed back) but the rules are also dumb for example if your ahead of one of the 'fast drivers ’ u have to let them by even if your on the same lap
Can you be more specific? I don’t know anything about anything right now so i thought this club/track might be a place to start. Maybe a PM if you don’t want to put it out in public. Not asking for names but any more info on why you feel this way would be appreciated before i make an investment in this series.
Thanks
Thanks for the PM.
Jax, FL may be looking like the better option. Travel distance is about the same.
Is this the recommended place in Jax?
https://www.northflkarting.com/
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Ok but I bear in kind that Oliver is running at the pointy end of the grid in juniors and that can be pretty competitive. Generally club races for adults are mostly free of that sort of nonsense.
Oliver’s experience isn’t necessarily representative. I have no clue though, just trying to be objective.
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I understand. I didn’t mean to start any drama, just looking for input and information at this point. 
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yes from what i have understood Jacksonville is currently owned by the government the same way a park is so pratice is currently free
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Thanks for the information.
Roebling Road seems like it would be a cool place to race but i can only find 2 karting events held there annually, and one was last weekend, so i missed the chance to at least go out and watch and ask questions.
I haven’t had a chance to read the entire convo here, but yes you can be a tall driver and be competitive in karting. The example at the top level I can think of is a driver called Sumas who won the supernats one year at over 6ft tall. I might be butchering the name, but definitely a top driver that’s a tall dude.
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Any chance you have some pics of your porch set up so i can see how it connects and what we are talking about exactly? I imagine I know somebody that can fabricate something for me for much less than the nearly $400 they want for it.
Wow, the price went up since I last checked. Used to be around $250.
I found a short turnbuckle and tapped a barrel to match the brake rod. I added an additional return spring on the brake pedal, because I found they were dragging slightly.
I purchased a De-Railer cable sleeve stop from a bike shop to move the exit point closer to the pedals and it helps keep my ankle from bouncing off it.
The Heel Stop is mounted to a crossbar that supports the additional floor pan.
To extend the upper hoop, he used some steel stock drilling an extra hole on the hoop side for rigidity and cut to length so the front edges of the upper and lower hoops are aligned for bumper fitting.
I used some aluminum flat stock to make a riser for the heel stop. It allowed the foot pegs to rest just above my heel making it more comfortable to actuate the pedals.
Originally I had the heel stop bar flipped the other direction, but found it made me have to pull my toes back to keep from putting pressure on the pedals unintentionally. Now the natural tendency of the foot to tilt slightly forward at rest does not put pressure on the pedals.
You can also flip the steering shaft block and give your knees an inch or so more room.
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Wow! Detailed response. This entails a little more than I realized. 
not so simple
Get a Beasley seat from Comet…
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I’ll check in to that. Thanks!!