Offset ride height for better weight distribution?

Is it feasible to raise (only) the front-left ride height to get more even weight distribution on the front?

I’ve been messing around with weight placement, and the front left is chronically light compared to the front right.

Lots of placement options to balance the rears, but not much up front.


Since ride height affects the handling of the kart, I wouldn’t run offset ride heights in front. How far off is your front weight? And let’s drill down to why it’s off.

Given how rigid the kart is though, it would not take hardly any height difference to make a strong difference in cross-weight. If you are just moving around 1mm washers under the spindle, it won’t be changing your geometry appreciably but could move weight around pretty significantly.

My experience is that bad cross-weights are a sign of a bent chassis or C, so the height is already uneven at the corners. As an emergency stop-gap, correcting a bent C with shims isn’t terrible and the tires won’t know much difference until you can get the chassis properly straightened.


Okay, thanks. Here’s the layout from the Kart Balance app, but adjusted for actual (bathroom) scale readings. So ignore the adjustment “weights” that are right on top of the wheels. The platform is level.

Below is the layout for Senior at 360#. My attempt at Masters at 390# has similar issues.

This is my Masters layout. All weights are 5#.

Again, ignore the adjustment “weights” right on the wheels.

(On a related note, as a newbie racer, should start with Senior or Masters? The extra weight for Masters seems ludicrous, but my priority right now is to learn as much as possible.)

Have you aligned the front end to see if there is any offset on front geometry?

If you want to run a small ride height offset to get it closer that’s probably fine. It’s not my preferred way to do it but you might not have another option and everyone has an opinion on whether you should aim for a symmetrical setup or symmetrical weight balance.

And Masters is usually more laid back. If you’re new that might be a better place to start but getting laps is important too. Two classes can be overwhelming however if you’re just getting going and figuring everything out.

I haven’t. I assumed it hasn’t changed. And I haven’t heard anything from the dealer since I bought it… :thinking:

Anyway… the Sniper system is the go-to, correct?

Sniper is a good choice, yes. I would put lasers on before adjusting anything so you can see what’s straight or not.

I am around 360# but I run masters at 390# because the gap to seniors is way too much.

1 Like

I think its a very good example of my point that i think people is to focused on this.
Again here is what Can go wrong when doing it. (Been there my self)

Not correct alligned steering.
Frame slifghtly out of shape.
The corner svales not correctly leveled.
Not the same tyre pressures in all Four corners.

The above needs to be 100% else what you think is perfect weight distribution could anything else then that.

1 Like

Once you verify frame is straight and steering is all set up correctly, you still may have slight offsets in weight percentages. It happens more with bigger folks who cant move weight around, but I have had one of these on almost every kart I have ever owned. I love them:

Derek, will this fit on a comet eagle

Start with masters and then start doing senior if it feels like something you’d want to do.

Yes, sir. You may need to drill out the bottom hole (I’m sorry, I cant remember on the Eagles), but if so, it is very simple. Drill out the center ride height hole just large enough to accept the cassette hardware.

1 Like