Anyone have a photo of how you’re suppose to mount the OTK brake duct? Now sure how I’m suppose to squeeze it between the battery box and seat. Also the hardware it came with isn’t making sense.
May require trimming and fudging to fit it when you have a battery. We had a couple guys run it in KA with a battery, so it can be made to work.
This funnels air to cool rotor? I have yet to experience heat related brake fade… is it a thing with some engine packages?
We don’t usually have actual brake fade, the feel remains consistent, but some drivers burn through pads quicker than others, and heat is a contributing factor. More common on a faster kart but I’ve had KA drivers who go through a set of pads a weekend. I don’t know how because mine last half the year, but it’s just down to driving technique sometimes.
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Yea not a chance that is going to fit between the seat and the big Rotax battery box. I think I’m going to have to stand it up vertically. My pads usually last me a long time, but I absolutely killed the last set. Pad material was no longer adhered to the backing structure. Maybe it’s due to running masters weight?
That looks more like a pad defect than anything to me. Brake cooling will help with pad life and pedal feel, but it won’t save the abrasive material from separating from the backing plate. The heat normally becomes an issue on really hot days or with long brake applications (ie; braking too early with not enough pressure, or dealing with more weight).
One thing you could do is cut the tube length down and have the scoop point more above the battery box/below your arm. It’ll find air one way or another.
I tend to agree with Zach that pad delamination isn’t a necessarily from overheating the brakes, though it could contribute. Could be a bad pad.
Certainly all Masters guys aren’t running around with pads delaminating constantly. I know plenty of fast Masters guys who don’t run the cooling duct either.
The red paint was also blistered, black, and peeling off. They got 
. I’ll give it a try. Never noticed brake fade, but when I went to load the kart in the truck I heard the pad material fall out. Good thing I stopped when I did. It’s nice that the new chassis come with it so you can always give it a try.
when my 11yo moved from 206 sportsman to KA jr we were burning through pads for half the year. If you’ve ever had to buy Merlin pads…it gets expensive really quickly!
Depending on the room between the strut and seat side you may be able to cut it shorter and fit the duct between the seat and strut vertically. Slightly obscured by the battery box, but if you can get it high enough than you can get decent flow.
Only way it was going to fit. Not super happy with it, but we will see if it makes a difference in a couple weeks for the first big race of the year.
+1 for the napping doggo.
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I might suggest putting a screen or mesh in front of it. I have seen more than one rock end up in a brake system that caused major issues.
Good thinking. Especially out here in the desert track is always covered in dust and rocks.
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Note: if you don’t want to pay OTK prices, you can use a vacuum-cleaner attachment. The upholstery tool might draw in cleaner air then something routed around a TaG battery.
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When I first started racing, I was going through to OTK pads pretty quickly. Like every 2 race weekends. I ended up switching to their Hard Sintered Pads and now they last all season. I did notice a drop in braking performance, only an increase in lifespan. Keep in mind, I am racing TaG Masters with a combined Kart and Driver weight around 400 lbs. Also, you can adjust the brake rod up or down on the pedal to change how they feel/ability to modulate pressure. I did move the rod down to improve modulation with the harder pad.
Can I ask how you secured it to the chassis? I got the long bolt that is recommended, but like you I need to mount it more vertical. Zip ties or something else?
Thanks!
can you share a link to the harder pad? I would actually love a harder pad that is less grabby and requires more pedal effort.
fwiw I also run this duct for 80 shifter at 375lbs rear brake only and it materially improved how long the pads last on my OTK and we race one track with long straight and in the 100*+ summers this duct helps with pedal feel towards end of long main events. is cheap and easy to run low risk thing to add can’t really hurt you and it is cheap was my perspective
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Right.
I installed it on my x30 and it made a huge difference.
I just used zip ties to the seat and mount. Before the airflow was so obstructed due to the radiator and radiator hose. Brakes were noticeably more consistent and the rotor was significantly cooler when I came in after 10 hard laps on new tires.
Definitely a welcome upgrade as I had some serious brake fade before. Hoping in the race it will help.
Forgot to mention I used the KG style air duct not the otk. The KG is much more flexible to cram it between the battery support and the seat.
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