Hello guys! Hope you are doing well. I have some general questions before swedish nationals. And they are:
im tearing down my chassis is there aomething specific to look for and to think about when assembling?
how do you guys clean axel bearing from bearing lube… i use brake cleaner and just spray it but my bearings get bad from tbat after like 1/2 of a season…
prepping the chassis (setups and other important stuff)
Thats most of it as of now…
For engines i dont really have to worry bc my engine builder has them both for a race prepp and piston change…
And the last question is:
The nationals are split in 5 days. How do you guys recon i should even out engine usage to perform at max? Like what days to use engine.
- practice and quali/heats
- heats and super heats
-Prefinals and finals
So its alot of driving compared to a normal layout on 2 or 1 day…
Thanks for your time. If you want me to specify something pls let me know
How does the tire situation work over 5 days?
Its 3 total sets (20 char)
Throw the good engine on for the final or second to last practice to make sure it’s dialed in and then run all competitive sessions on that engine.
Not sure what the rules on tires are but you’ll want to practice on a new set at some point if you can to get a read on it for quali.
Are you allowed to check in and use both engines for the race sessions, or must you only use one? If only one, then it’s self-explanatory. If using two, then I would first ask whether they perform equally, and if so then you could divide the team up by each day.
Yes i can register 2 engines and switch betwen sessions… thay both run equaly on the dyno. 1 carb is a bit better when it comes to idle on the stand but thats not really a problem…
I will buy 3 sets of tores and use 1 for full day peactise and 1 on practice pr warmup before quali…
But i got some sad news. I will have to either weld ot get a new frame:
Took it apart iinspected it and boom. Pretty sad
Do you know what colorcode praga has?
Big sad for you. Can you fix in time?
I mean i will try. Its a pretty easy place to welld bc its a overlapping tube… if i dont i will have to rent s chassis or get my new one
I think it’s an easy weld that will have 0 impact on the chassis. Seems like the original weld didn’t have penetration so the crack is really the bead coming off…grind off old weld, lay new bead in and it will be better than new. Bring it to a pro welder and you’ll never notice the difference
Can my dad do it? He has been a car mechanic for 10 years and he had a own shop repairing cars after crashes and stuff?