RLV or DID for 219 Chain in KA?

Pretty straightforward question. Getting my ducks in a row for next season and want to stock up on a few chains. RLV or DID for KA? Price different seems negligible so curious if there’s a reason to pick one over the other.

I always run either the RK or DID non-o-oring for KA.


DID HTZ has been my preference.


DID HTZ is the best 219 chain.

You can run RLV in 206 though and wont notice a difference but in KA its more likely to stretch/get a bad link.


I was running the DID non O-ring chains, but found myself going through a chain a weekend. I was told to run O-Ring chains on the KA which I have done so for the last year, and I no longer go through chains each weekend. I’ve been using RK chains.


I do run the RLV for my sons mini swift and it does well there, but obviously not the same power.

Hi David! Thread jacking…. Have you touched base with KCA? they got your trophy for the KA class.

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I have been using rk non O ring chains on my karts. On a shifter I used to change the chain couple times a season but for 2022 I used only one chain. It was used to begin with.

The difference for this season was that I took the chain off between track days, washed it in 2 stroke gas, let it dry, lubed it. The chain kept stretching early in the season but then it stopped - I have been measuring the stretch everytime with a gauge. It is still good and I plan to use it next season

On my 750 sport bike, changing from 530 O ring chain to a 520 non O ring chain felt like I had no longer engine braking. Back in the day that bike had a bit over 100hp at the rear wheel and about 215-220kg wet weight.

On my gsxr 1000 used a O ring chain but never gave it any lube during the season - I hated that lube would just make a mess and fly everywhere. My reasoning was that any lube would only be able to lube the roller. Theres no way the lube could get past any O rings. No surprise then that the chain was trash after a season - it started sounding crunchy when coming to a stop. Maybe the rollers eventually heated up, burned the O rings and all the lube flew off. Used DID chains - no problems with them neither

The chain would get extreme blueing or would break? That seems like short chain life.

Is it especially dusty down at your track? What lube are you using? A chain a weekend in KA seems excessive.

I used two chains this year for probably 20 days of driving, and the second chain was precautionary. I saved the original as a practice chain.

I have to agree with TJ, a regular chain should last a long time on a KA. I changed the chain after 3 or 4 months = 8 - 10 days just because I was getting paranoid. I use Bel Ray chain lube.

I don’t think it’s dusty as most tracks we race on see regular action here in Texas, and I was using Motul on road chain lube, I’ve always used good quality chain lube. The chain would stretch and begin to blue and would start to eat the sprocket. I had no issue using non o-ring chains when we were in mini swift or KA junior, but in senior we started to go through them quickly. I’d always lube the chain after we come off the track, and before going out. I’d make sure the tension was correct before each run. None of that seemed to make a difference, but since I switched to the O-ring chains, and do the same routine, I’ve had no issues with chains, or sprockets for that matter. I’ll gladly spend twice as much for a chain if it’s going to last 3+ times longer and not destroy my sprockets, and it doesn’t really take anything away from our performance.

It would blue and stretch and start to eat away the sprocket. I’d get the chain that would be at perfect tension, and then turn the wheel slightly and it was now too tight. I didn’t have the issue until we moved into KA Sr. Mini Swift and KA junior it was never this excessive.

I’m with the guys wondering about the high usage for non-O ring chains. I club race a VKR 100 and use DID HTZ chains with Motul Factory Line lube. I’m getting several 100 laps on each chain.