I use the Xbox controller on the pc as well. It’s connected to usb via a regular charging cable. I don’t know if you can control the game or wether you have to have the hand thingies. All I do in my Lenovo (no controllers) is sim. I’d imagine you can, though.
Real talk I normally don’t have time to use my setup. And this is the first time in years I have even had any time to do any gaming/sim. So if anyone is interested in my basically brand new fanatec csl base, Xbox/pc p1 wheel and pedal set let me know. If your local I have a playseat as well.
It’s definitely much better and more consistent. Having not really driven a real race car I can’t comment on that specifically. It’s firm though when it starts to engage, and on long races my left leg gets a work out. Obviously could calibrate it softer or soften the resistance.
Yeah, I just bought an new Fanatec CSL Elite and Pedals, but I didn’t get the loadcell pedal set, because it’s a console build.
I would add that a loadcell initially doesn’t feel like what you think it should. You come into it expecting firm Racecar brakes. But, that’s not it. Pressure is what you set it to be. What the loadcell does is allows you to reliably squeeze the brake to generate a certain pressure. Unlike a potentiometer, it’s not triggered by distance of travel but rather by pressure.
It’s a lot more realistic but sort of hard to explain. Once you get used to it, it’s hugely better.
Now if you actually want to sell the kids rather than just excommunicate them, we should discuss hydraulic sim pedals…
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They’re closer to real car feel but still a ways off. You still have to mod them to get them to get even more realistic. Real car brake pressure is around 60bar. It’s less about travel and more about pressure input. The pedal might move a total of 1” or so. I’m struggling with the cheap CSL elite pedals and braking input. I even put some really stout bump rubbers wedges behind the pedal to stiffen it up and I still blow straight past and into lockup immediately. It’s really frustrating.
This is also why I typically just run ABS aids on sims. It’s a sim. So no care 
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Casual! (I kid, maybe).
I haven’t messed with it that much. I just have the generic non-old cell pedals. I couldn’t get the load cell ones because they said preorder only when I bought mine. I guess out of stock.
But here’s what I did. Found a super stiff bump rubber to put behind the brake. And then hacked up a less stiff one for behind the throttle to give it a little more resistance and bring the stop point a lot closer.
This is version one of the bandaid to get some realistic pedal feedback. I threw it together last night after work in about ten minutes. I’m sure I’ll get more creative with it and get things closer.
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I like the concept of what you did there.
I’ve heard that squash balls cut in half are good too.
Same principle. These go on the shaft of car shocks to limit travel. There’s a lot of different densities to tune the shocks to “sit” on the stops without overloading the tires. I found the stiffest one I could find in the baggy of old ones in the corner of the shop hah.
There’s a few options I can try for my G920.
- Remove the rubber and just go with the stock spring (apparently its not bad) - Free
- Remove the rubber and install an after market progressive spring (gteye.com.au) - $20
- Install a faux load cell, electro mechanical version (https://www.axc-sim.com/product/load-cell-for-logitech-g29-pedals/) - $55
- Install a full on load cell (https://www.ricmotech.com/Load_Cell_Upgrade_Kit_for_Logitech_Pedals_p/rmt-lc27.htm) - $130
I’m leaning towards the faux load cell.
That certainly seems worth a try. It’s not cheap cheap but it sure seems popular. Sold out, even.
I don’t know that spending 130 on loadcell kit makes sense in that if you really get into this, eventually you’ll buy Fanatecs or better.
Oppps might have bought the electro mechanical load cell.
Yeah I agree, the full blown loadcell is expensive enough that you might as well go fanatec at that point.
I’ve been reading some reviews and it seems if I want something with a little better FFB than I should go towards the thrustmaster tx. If I’m lucky I can find it for the same price as the G920. Thanks for the review on the wheel. This has all been really helpful
Andre is on now I think and I’ll be in later
I’ll sell my fanatec csl setup to anyone looking.