I wouldn’t worry about wets for a while, most club day events usually have a "Gentleman’s Agreement’ to not use them. Bigger meetings are different of course, but they are only something I have bought if the forecast for an event is bad. Otherwise they just sit in your shed and get hard.
I used to own a Prado, if the rear seats are folded down and forward you should be able to fit it in, perhaps the nose cone would have to come off but i think it may be wide enough to not have to do anything else. Rough guide to store a kart with all the fairings on you need a minimum of 2100mm x 1400mm
You should be able to pick up a KA100 complete for $2200 and a chassis that is a few seasons old for around $1500. (it wont look flash but it will get you on track) There are some good deals out there, sometimes club members are willing to sell things for a bit less to get bums in seats so it might be worth talking to your local clubs members. They should know whats around locally.
I’m also from the Country, numbers can be a bit low at times but if there are 3-4 evenly matched guys in the same class it can still be fun. I race away 4-6 times a year at open meetings, when it doesn’t clash with life, and most fields then are in the 10 -20 region.
Fuel used at most meetings is what ever the local servo has in the 98 octane variety (Caltex’s vortex 98, BP’s Ultimate 98) there are some “Race fuels” that are used and that are legal according to Karting Australia, but I haven’t seen them used outside of the national series.
Download a copy of the rule book and have a read there is a lot in there, about fuels and other things, but it is worth wading through. http://www.karting.net.au/administration/rules
$1.60/L of fuel and Kart 2 stroke oil is around $30-$40 per 1L pack
Bank on using about 1 liter of fuel mix per race.
KA100 Fuel mixture is 20:1 or 50ml of oil per 1 liter of fuel. You could use either more or less oil but 20:1 is safe at the recommended Carby settings
Not sure about restricted 125 mixtures.
Race day fees at my club are $30 per entry, and prices would range up from there.
I’ve made a table so it’s easy to see it all. I’ve colour coded, Green just means it’s all good and I don’t have to worry about spending more money, yellow is the probably will have to but It isnt too much, and the darker orange is probably have to spend more and quite often?
How long do tyres typically last, when do you start losing serious time?
Props for doing a budget. Not many seem to do it… then wonder why they run of of money. I agree with Dom, make sure you add an “oh ” fund for things that will break.
You’re new, therefore you’re going to need a lot of help at the track.
Keeping your kart clean and your pit tidy says a lot to others about what kind of person you are. Presenting a clean kart to a scrutineer is respectful, and you’ll be rewarded with an easier ride through pre race inspections, especially if the kart has visible done done work. People are also probably more inclined help out with a lift or a push if you exhibit a care factor.
It’s important to demonstrate an attempt to become self sufficient too. Hitting people up all the time for help (especially for physical help) is stressing for you and a pain in the ass for them. Be careful, be grateful and don’t ever assume you’ll be able to recruit unpaid pit crew at the track. They’re there to run their own race, and it’s cost them a lot of money to do so. Some people have medical constraints that make them unwilling to provide that push start you need.
Buying a mechanical kart lifter is the most transformational thing I’ve ever done In Karting. A one time investment of 1500 bucks forever relieved my need for pit crew and bugging people up at the track. I can get either of my karts from my garage to the grid without another pair of hands touching them. It did great things for my confidence, my relationships at the track and the levels of physical energy I was able to invest in driving, instead of wasting in the pits. Wearing yourself out lifting and begging before taking the wheel will show up in your results.
Get a lifter. It’ll change your relationship with the sport.
Okay so @Bimodal_Rocket
Thanks for the tire info, I’ve added it in there, that should’nt be too big a deal at the moment but haha this is not an easy sport.
I will have a search but are there any transponders/brands you’d recommend?
Okay I’ll make a note to be ready to spend upwards of $50? at any point for repairs? I’ll make sure to leave some money on the side.
@KartingIsLife
Thank you! I’m trying my best here. And yes like I said I’ll put something aside for “Oh ” haha.
@Motormouse
Okay, I’ll make sure to take care of it well and of course be mindful when seeking assistance, besides I think when I first get my kart I’ll be sleeping in the shed with it, I’ll keep it clean.
My dad is going to be my #1 pit crew for the most part but that does sound like the dream, If I see fit or find a sum of $1500 I’ll definitely consider it, but I’ll probably need to get a trailer first
Thanks again you guys, I’ll show an update when I’ve added a transponder and such and hopefully if I’ve found a good kart kit.
So I am not sure what parts actually cost if you install them yourself as I ride under a tent and pay for support on a by race basis.
That being said, I would double that number. You will eventually break a few things that will run into the hundreds. So for example last weekend I replaced my water pump ($70) and a worn sprocket ($17).
Also for tires you are showing $100 when it’s more like $200 for 4.
Your best bet is renting a transponder. Pretty much the only one that you can buy is subscription based so you are effectively renting it. The more you race, the cheaper buying one is if you divide the subscription by the number of races. You won’t know how many races you are going to be able to do until you actually start racing.
You probably should buy your transponder for racing in Aus. The new mylaps transponder (x2?) is an annual subscription fee arrangement but you can buy a used second hand older style mylaps transponder from some facebook groups etc for ~$250 and not have to worry about subscriptions, hiring and returning them. One less administrative task to remember on a hectic race day. My club charges $65 race entry fee and $20 hire for a transponder. Less than a season and you would have paid off your transponder in hire costs…
I was stripping my kart and putting it in the back of my hilux canopy arrangement for a while until i got my trailer. Nose cone, rear bar, side pods, nassau panel and all four wheels came off and it just fit in. So you’d probably get away with squeezing it into a prado.
Check your regs for tyres in KA3. I think they are bridgestone YLR’s in KA3 and will be closer to $250 a set? We use DFM’s in Tag125r. I’m just about on my second set for the season so i’d budget $500 a year for tyres.
Are budgeting for an engine rebuild per year? Might be a good idea. ~$1500
Also, your fuel will be closer to $30 for a race meet.
Good to see you thinking it through and working it out. It is a little expensive, but alot of the stuff you need up front will last you a few seasons etc, so not so bad once you’ve got everything.
Hi, enjoy the ride, my 12 year old has started in KA4 Junior in Victoria and is loving it! I did what you are doing to prepare (not nearly as well!). Some additional things I’ve learnt, and am still learning.
As has been suggested above it will pay you to go and talk to someone and watch at your closest track before buying anything … I think you will find for KA3 Junior you need to have a B Grade licence as a Junior … see http://www.vka.asn.au/how-to-start-karting/#upgradingyourlicence … in a nutshell you will need to “complete” 10 races (I think this is defined as 75-80% of the laps) to go from D (with P plates) to C (4 race meets) to a B licence (another 6 race meets). A few kids race KA3 Junior at our club (fields are small though unless doing a big meet, Series or State stuff … not run as Juniors on National level) but the change from KA4 Junior spec wise is only restrictor out, race weight (maybe lead needed) and tyres from memory with these people many times using the same kart.
My advice would be that run in the class you can with the biggest fields.
PS: if buying a second hand transponder make sure they guarantee it holds 4 days charge, and comes with all the accessories. Spark plugs … about $15-20 each (have a spare) … make sure sprockets are aligned … chews chains, sprockets and clutch bearings if not (ask me how I know :)). Carbie kits … $25-30 maybe once/twice a year. If you do race in the rain get a cover for the air inlet box $35 … water and grit ruin the engines.
Get on the Facebook buy and sell pages … lots of stuff there. Some examples:
That makes the C12 we buy at $11 / gallon (minus another 25% if you run stickers and place in the top 3) plus about $8 for the oil, seem rather inexpensive for the shifter kart here in Oklahoma.
Alright I added in the Mylaps X2 and its just over $200 from https://speedhiveshop.mylaps.com/karting.html so that should be sorted.
I’ll message a mate and ask him what the race entry fee is.
Sounds good, would save me a fortune trying to buy a trailer.
Thanks, double checked the manual and it’s the DF M’s $240 a set, I did a bit of research and apparently they last quite some time so I wouldn’t be too fussed about tyre quality while I was learning the ropes. But if I was especially keen for a comp I’d definitely get new ones.
Alright I will keep it in mind but I’m trying not to scare my parents here with the costs haha, but of course engine maintenance is super important.
Yeah alright, I’ll just buy as I go for fuel.
Yeah, I planning is the key here, and I’m looking for a kart for under $3000 hopefully? Hopefully. With all things considered it’d bring the initial cost just below $5000. Which isn’t cheap but I think I could get away with it maybe.
I will talk to my club manager about the licence and all that, thanks though I hadn’t realized that before. I still do need to go visit the track one day and find out, but alright, I’ll keep it in mind when buying a kart. I’ll work on a pre-race and post-race checklist then, so I can keep things working well. Rain racing I’m keeping out of the frame right now just because the complications would just be a bit much at the moment but for sure I if I ever decide to I’ll make sure everything is well looked after.
I’ve requested those buy n sell groups, thanks for the recommendations!
” fund for things that will break.
