I have many a comments on possible things to check , but just throwing this out there being a complete NOOB, does this seems a little sticky?
It does sound that way. I’d remove the air filter and check to see if the throttle is closing all the way. Then, i’d make sure the throttle cable routing is doesn’t have any tight bends, and that the ends of the cable’s sheath aren’t constricted and pinching the cable.
Yep that’s sticking. To add to what’s already been said. I’ve found that the return spring in the carb can be pretty weak and if you have a heavy enough gauge of cable it can hang unless you add a decent amount of slack the the pedal end.
Thanks for this information… greatly appreciate it
Also, is there a spring on the gas pedal to help it return? Cheapband easy to add!
It is imo. not a good idea to try to remedy a sticking throttle with a return spring on the throttle pedal.
Doing this when there is friction in the cable run can push the outer cable out of its location in the adjuster on the chassis as the throttle pedal is released.
You then get a throttle held wide open rather than sticking ,as the cable outer does not go back into its location bore in the adjuster.
Better remedies are to ensure a low friction
cable run and if necessary fit a stronger return spring at the carb.
It may well be that slide carburettors designed for motor cycle use with a twistgrip are marginal on spring return and could benefit from a stronger spring when pedal operated.
A ’ palliative’ is to tape the outer cable into the adjuster to discourage it from dropping out.
I’ve adjusted the slack on the throttle Cable and this has seemed to be what is influencing the most.
Excuse my ignorance, but what style of cable does the carb on the LO206 use? On my son’s Honda gx160, and my old Rotax max when I raced years ago, I used bicycle cables. I buy teflon coated cables, and good quality (Shimano or JagWire) teflon lined cable housing, and I’ll get a full season of friction free use, when other guys had really noticeable drag on their cables.
The cable is quite similar to the GX series but the carb and mechanism are different. The 206 has a slide carb and the return spring lives inside it. As someone pointed out, it’s probably not strong enough to pull an inner cable back on an imperfectly routed cable.
I like the idea of the Teflon coating.
speaking as a former full time bicycle mechanic, I fully believe that a high quality cable and housing will make a noticeable difference in how smooth a bike shifts and brakes, same with a go kart throttle.
I do recall using bicycle gear cables in the past vs brake cables. Back when there really wasn’t a kart shop, or online stores.
I agree with Eric, first give more slack to the throttle cable. The 206 just seems to require a obvious sag on the cable. Then if that doesn’t help start done the list of suggestions.
Would you also have to adjust some the pedals travel along with more slack in the cable? What’s the rule of the thumb with that consideration. Currently there isn’t that much but I don’t know what I’m saying it just seems that way to me
I thought it was sticking at full pedal press but after testing tonight it’s sticking barley giving it any tension and tapping it sets it back to a normal idle.
Now to some of your all’s suggestions
Remove the cable from the carb and press on the carb linkage, does it go wide open throttle and return easily no matter how fast or slow you do it?
Next grab both ends of the throttle cable while it is disconnected from the carb and do a flossing motion, does it glide back and forth easily? If there is any bind the cable or the sheathing is worn out.
Lastly while the cable is still disconnected press the throttle pedal and see if the bind is in the petal pivot point instead. Hope its resolved, i wouldnt wish a stuck throttle on anyone.