If you don’t have a kart shop you can send the clutch to or don’t send it back to the manufacturer, I’d replace it. The reason is cost. Add up the costs for a new floater and friction disk. Since this is not a new clutch, consider a new bearing and also new springs. Any guarantee you won’t have a problem after getting it back together, no.
The right side of the top photo has different scratch marks on the inner right side as if some one tried to clean up the floater with sand paper. Also there is a slight blue portion of the floater caused by too much heat. The last photo shows what I’m guessing as rust.
What was the stall speed this clutch was set to?
It doesnt have any rust. I Installed brand new springs, screws and a new floater to get the air gap right in June. It was ran at 8600-8700
If you’re confident the rest of the clutch is mechanically sound, all the surfaces are flat and nothing is binding, then try new floater and friction discs.
The stall speed is right on. How often do you race and what is your maintenance schedule on the clutch?
That’s probably what I’ll do $90 vs $300 for a new one. My track only runs 10-12 races a season. I raced 8 or 9 this year. I usually check the air gap and blow it out every few races and lube the bushing before every race
You’ve got some hot spots but I certainly wouldn’t throw that clutch away. You can use low grit sandpaper to scuff the surfaces (recommended by most manufacturers before re-install) but it won’t actually level them. You’d need someone with a surface grinder to do that. If you’re able to scuff them and get proper air gap then you’ll be ok to use it.
In your last pic is there a crack in the 6’o clock bolt hole? Tough to tell but if so then I would replace that piece as the crack will get into the friction surface and continue from there rapidly.
Thank you Chris! I didn’t even notice the crack! Im going to take it to comet and see what they say, pretty sure they make them