Hello All,
I don’t have specific information regarding stress relieving a chassis, but I can add some information regarding chassis fabrication and repair. Marin has it correct about CR-MO, having a good fit and sequence welding.
I worked at a chassis manufacturer for 23 years. We hand built each kart. The fitting of the joints needs to be proper in respect to the type of welding. We MIG welded the frames. The fit was very close over 90% of the welded area. I always left a larger gap at the starting point as the MIG weld doesn’t penetrate well at the very start. This way it would fill the gap without raising up into a tall weld.
The static fit of the frame rails onto the jig was also important. Clamping was only used as an extra set of hands. The frame rail would be adjusted after bending to conform to the jig. There was no forcing the frame components into position.
The welding was always done in a sequence. There are two parts to this. The first was the order in which the welds were made based on the jig/frame location. The second was how each weld was executed. Our jig required the the frame be removed to finish the bottom of the welds. After sequence welding the bottom, the chassis could go back into the jig and it would be flat.
Our frames had CR-MO side rails, motor mount tube, and front tube. The other crossbars were mild steel. We never used heat in our fabrication process.
Our jigs were square and flat. They did require a periodical “tuning up”.
In repairing crashed frames, I have used various methods. Heating was only used when there was damage localized to a small area such as one bend or a king pin locator. If the chassis was bent or bowed over a long area, it would get some force applied to it. This approach was usually a temporary fix as the rail would eventually try to return to its damaged state.
Most of the time I cut the frame in one or more places to relieve the stresses. The idea was to achieve the same stress-less condition under which the frame was built. Since some of our brackets were added off the main jig, the frame would not usually go back in. I would set up various flat plates to keep the frame flat and true. Sometime I would fabricate temporary jigging to keep everything in the right place. Sometimes part of a rail would be replaced. Every repair was different.
Was every repair successful? No, but most were.
A note about bending tubing. Tubing always springs back a little after the force of the bender is released… Some spring back more than others. When repairing a bent frame you have to over bend it. Putting it in a jig will show if its flat. It will not conform to the jig by using heat. It is at this point that I do not know if stress relieving will help. I never tried it
regards, marc