Interesting, sounds like quite the conditions swing indeed! I wish I could find that magical carb setting and just not touch it ever again.
After qualifying, tech paints across different parts of our carbs. Locations like carb to intake spacer, across the float bowl, etc. So it can be a giant PIA to make some mid race day changes like a float adjustment.
.865, middle clip, 1.5 on the air bleed. 
I don’t even dyno my personal engines. I just set them there and roll.
Same here….I set the float and needle clip in the middle of the range and send it
I’m in the PNW - driving at Mountain Highway Raceway (PSGKA).
I know the gas is the same batch. The last race was in October and the previous one was in September. I’d guess there was a 15F air temperature difference.
Given how everyone is trying to make sense of things and help, I took all the questions and points as coming from a great place.
FWIW, I haven’t touched the float from what it came from the factory. The valve lash is 0.002 on the intake and exhaust (IIRC). I was told to change those to around 0.004 but we didn’t want to mess with it since the engine has been great.i believe the V shaped clip is on the second notch from the bottom because we wanted to run it a little rich at the low end since it was a new engine.
In the next couple of weeks we’ll adjust the lash to the 0.004 target, check the float and probably move the clip to the middle.
Happy to consider other suggestions. Thank you.
Anyone else been checking on the infamous kbp recently?
Not looking to fuel any fires here just thought it was interesting. I also have a lurking suspicion of someone using a beefy engine at our club which led on a trail back to this builder 
I wish I had a more articulate way of putting it but “The Krybaby” is a bit of a $hitstirrer as far as I can tell based on cam twisting thing that he happens to sell a kit for.
I posted this very topic in the Briggs 206 Racer FB group and he responded with something about testing 100+ engines and that comparing two is not good advice. I don’t disagree, but there’s a lot more info in this topic than a comparison of two engines.
Yeah the posts only read like attention grabbing advertisements
Just a lot of talk about “cam profile” on his page lately
Also have not once seen a price for an engine of his online. It’s only DM me etc.
I hope the engine building is more competent than the grammar.
KNoW WHaT I mEaN?
Maybe its me, but I have a hard time putting stock in a statement peppered with emoji characters.
The baby banned/blocked me from his engine and personal page for calling out the obvious to him. Proof enough for me to know he’s full of 
Same stuff different day. I have not seen a truthful claim out of him yet. The only credit I will give this guy is that he is good at getting his voice out there. I know he has at least a few customers and seems to be doing more engines than when he started this mess. So, good for him.
I’m willing bet that “he has seen this 4 times” but has sold each of those amazing engines to at least 20 customers. Each one has paid a huge premium to buy a unicorn.
Stuff like this bothers me because all he is doing is tarnishing the sport.
Back in Bridgestone days, a big team actually flew fresh tires from factory to track. It made enough difference the series made some major changes.
This guy seems like the 4-cycle equivalent of Zartarian.
Nah… the last thing Zar wants is to draw attention to himself and his work. 
I could see this being his after hours alter ego…4 margs later and Zar is now Krybaby Performance. Trade “perfection” and “precision” for emojis and bad punctuation. 
Very long thread so this might have already been asked. What is the repeatability and resolution of a kart engine dyno? I’d be surprised to see better than 1% repeatability and 1% resolution. Throw in potential for additional errors due to the correction factor for the air, it doesn’t seem that a dyno could actually see a .2 difference in horsepower. The only way I could believe the .2 HP difference is if the test were done repeatedly with the same results and maybe this was done.
As someone else stated the performance of an engine isn’t just about peak horsepower but more important is what the power curve looks like. I would think how a certain motor performs also could be track related. So many variables.
My experience is the kart chassis setup, driver-tuner and tuner will make up more than .2 peak horsepower in most cases. Not saying that .2 HP won’t make a difference but unless the driver can sequentially repeat 3 or 4 laps within a 1/10 sec, it probably won’t make difference over 15 or 20 laps.
I still love karting and this website, even though I only race cars now. It’s easier on the 72 YO bod.
Dom - Actually road racing karts for 45 minutes is very easy on the bod. Grippy tired sprint karts are the bod killers. I just ran 30 minutes in a FF race and physically it was nothing, even with a severe rotator cuff injury but mentally, I think the FF is more difficult. Mistakes can be very costly as there is a lot stored energy in a 1000 lb car moving at 115 MPH, mistakes in a sprint kart result in losing 1/10s.
Hehe. Glad to hear you can drive fine despite bad wing!
I did notice that quality of cars having a big energy cycle and it taking time to run its course (in a loss of control situation). It really is different compared to how we shed all energy in the snap/spin which ends fast.
