Did you go to H or A axle?
I have liked the A axle actually as well.
I went to an H.
My mind is in a pretzel trying to figure out why that worked…maybe has something to do with my seat position further back than yours as I have mounted off the OTK chart. I guess I’ll need to try the raised rear ride height on an N and compare.
Oversteer could be from over-flexing at initial turn-in and lifting too hard, going into flat-slide as you approach apex. Harder axle could settle it down and keep it from over-twisting the frame.
If a track is green sometimes you’ll get a flat-slide like that instead of a hop.
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That would make sense, as it rained here Monday/Tuesday.
Could’ve also tried reducing rear track as well I assume. That was a bit counterintuitive at the time as I also imagine loose on entry means more stability needed/wider rear track. Always learning something.
Thanks for thinking through that TJ, much appreciated.
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TJ,
Curious to hear your thoughts on how the standard A axle compares to a cut N.
Thanks
The A is slightly stiffer so it’s a step between the N and H. It’s a good baseline axle if you’re doing more regional or national racing where the track is going to get grippier and you need to start a half step stiffer.
A cut N is going to give a tiny amount more sidebite than the standard N.
I always start on the N and usually go straight to the H once rubber goes down. But the A could be good if you’re taller or the track starts out grippier.
So this is probably an obvious question, but I’ll ask it any way.
So would cutting the A have the same effect as cutting the N, i.e. a touch more sidebite?
My regular track, (AMP) never really gets rubbered up, but on the N axle I experience quite a bit of hop in a couple of spots, so I 've tried the A, and I like it, but it does feel a bit too free in a few corners, although the hopping is reduced significantly.
I’m a little on the taller side at 6’ ft, wiegh about 170lbs. I run X30 master’s typically though, so I have to add quite a lot of weight to the seat, which Ive tried to keep as low as possible.
T11VG seat mounted about 1cm back from the standard OTK position (this on a 2023 chassis)
Thanks, and sorry for hijacking the thread 
Cut A should do the same thing and add a bit of sidebite. A good test to see if that’s a direction you want to go would just be to narrow the rear track a bit and see if that fixes the issue. Easier and less of a commitment compared to sawing your axle. The narrower rear track will semi-simulate how a cut axle will feel, but it will be a bit more unstable.
However, I will say that if you are splitting hairs on being too loose on the A vs having a hop on the N, it could likely be a driving issue. At that point you’re fine-tuning so minutely that it may never be ‘perfect’ and you may have to decide if you want it freer or more hoppy and drive around it a bit.
You could also try adding a dot of negative camber on the N to try and dial out the hop.
Hi!
Which are the bumper savers you all recommend to buy for a stock OTK chassis? I have read about it in the forum several times, but do not know what they are. Could someone please post a link to the product?
What difference does it make with the stock piece?
Thanx for your help.
These are pretty popular. But also some throttle cable with a clamp works fine and is much cheaper.
I’ve also just run some zip-ties around the brackets in a pinch and they survived for a few sessions. No telling how long they’d last in reality though.
Thank you very much for your help 