TM R1 Birel Shifter cable help

Ok ya’ll

Take a look at Theos picture

What am I doing wrong for the clutch cable install? To me it seems like wrapping the cable around the shift lever bolt is to harsh on the cable and wouldn’t hold the tension of the cable very well?

Also, can someone explain to me if the steering colum cable perch should be in the left hand side ? Cable in line with with the lock bolt to take away any angles on the cable.

And how do I tension the cable in regards to the clutch lever on the R1 engine . The clutch arm is super stiff. Do I pull the cable lever on the engine all the way open before tension it?

Thanks for all the help

Cable needs to go straight through the hole in middle, not looped around on the top

I tried to point at it. Once you do that, align the cable support bracket to make sure it’s as straight as possible. Second part of the question…I usually use a prybar to push on the lever far enough to be able to hook up the cable.
Be careful…at rest there should be no tension on the clutch push rod (you should be able to spin the outside washer easily by hand, that tells you there is no pressure)

You want 5-10 mm free play at the lever to avoid having the clutch slip.

The cable should go around a fairlead around a projection on the part rather than a bolt in single shear, but the load is small enough that this isn’t going to matter.

I may be alone in this, but I prefer to make a permanent rather than temporary cable using Nicopress splices and aircraft control cable, and lubricate it with dry graphite, so it is nice and smooth and doesn’t go out of adjustment. You’d have to be able to either unbolt it at the clutch lever or slip it out of the clutch arm so you wouldn’t have to cut it.

Hey still not totally understanding the clutch cable tension……

So the cable goes thru the hole, and the bolt punches down in it to hold the tension?

I tried this and I found it kinked the cable?

So I push the clutch actuator arm “all the way” forward……tension the cable at the steering wheel end and then let off the actuator arm?

Sorry, this part of the kart seems really tricky?

Don’t worry, after the first 100 you do it becomes second nature :rofl:

  1. Yes, cable through the hole, the black set screw locks it in place, the nut prevents the set screw from backing out

  2. Cable is not kinked…it’s at an angle because when you pull, it straightens within the working area of the lever…so as you pull the cable, it all aligns

3)To tension it…simply pull the cable through the hole of the handle with a tiny bit of tension (like take the slack off with 2 fingers) and lock it. It will feel very loose because after the first pulls the new cable stretches itself.

Test 1: Put the kart in gear with engine off, when you pull the clutch you should be able to spin the rear wheels by hand.
Test 2: at rest, the shim on the oustide of the clutch should freely spin (no tension on the actuating rod)

Depending on what happens, you may want to loosen or tighten a bit. Then the first time you are on track, if it drags too much you may want to tighten the cable a bit…always making sure that are rest the clutch disks have full pressure (test #2 above)

It’s more complicated to explain than actually doing it you’ll see…

Ok thanks everyone for the help