I wanted to see if anyone can give me some info on what’s needed to make an 2021 OTK 401 ready to race in the LO206 class. Such as different axels and etc…
Thanks in advance!
As long as your axle is keyed for 206 you should be good to go! Baseline setup is fine for 206
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You’ll need an axle for a shifter, but other than that it’s ready to go. Seat clearance is tough if you use one bigger than OTK #2.
Chrome bar, 1 box positive camber and 1 box toe out, 44/56 weight distribution, one wide spacer inside on the front spindles, 1390 mm rear width, gear appropriately for the track, run the same tire pressures everyone else is running, fresh 87 octane e10 gas every day, drain the carb before you leave the track, grease the chain and clutch, change the oil every two race days with the Briggs Amsoil oil.
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Disagree here. I ran a size 34 Greyhound with zero issues.
Disagree on the seat comment - we mounted OTK 3, OTK 4, Tillett T11 L and Tillett T11 XL seats in OTK karts this week with zero issues. You only move the left seat stay to accommodate, the right stay doesn’t move. So seat size is largely irrelevant.
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If you are buying an axle for 206, get an H or harder. The standard N machined for dual keys is fine but outside of if you are running on rock hard spec tires, harder axle is better in 206 on an OTK.
Two questions:
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What does chrome bar mean? Are you referring to a certain kind of front torsion bar?
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If you use fresh gas every single day, then what do you do with the old gas you don’t use?
We ran LO206 in an OTK and LN until this year.
Bent left strut open to accommodate seat. Used spacers on right strut to shift seat left.
Ran motor with inboard clutch which allowed motor to sit in more and helped with weight.
Middle ride height. Never ran low height. Ran high if rained and we had time.
HH axle was our go-to if there was any grip. N axle if wet/slick. I would recommend you have a cut H or HH and a full length H or HH. We did not and it cost us when grip was extreme not having a cut hard axle.
We ran seat struts OFF ALWAYS. Even in the wet. But my driver is 6-4 so he has plenty of body to use and leverage the rear of the kart.
Front was 1-2 boxes toe out. Bigger faster track, 1 box, smaller tighter track went 2. On 1 track we went as much as 3 toe out.
Camber was usually 0-3 boxes. Wet/slick aimed for 0. 2 boxes was normal.
We used standard OTK pills and Sniper pills. Loved the adjustment of the Sniper, but found they drifted and were not reliable to hold camber after we ran em a while. I think it was the stack up of adapters for the OTK kit.
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Yes, in order of stiffness they go chrome (1mm wall thickness), gray (1.5 mm wall thickness), and beige (2 mm wall thickness).
You pour the extra gasoline in your car’s tank and drive home. If you’ve got a diesel or electric, then you give it away to someone who pours it in their car’s tank.
I dont think this applies in California, but here in the midwest, track gas makes the best lawnmower gas you’ll ever have. No ethanol, so it starts right up on the first pull every spring.
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Awesome! I never knew this.
Standard OTK is a flat chrome bar. They also offer round bar options to further tune the front. Just like @Charles_Kaneb said, the round bars go in order from Chrome, Silver/Gray, Gold. Gold is stiffest, Chrome is softest.
I used excess fuel in our generator at the track or in my lawnmower when I got home. Way better for intermittent use small engines than ethanol fuel.
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