I could NOT figure out why my chain kept getting loose after just 20 laps. Upon inspection, it would appear that I overtightened my motor mount clamps and warped them. The hole is an oval, not a circle, and it shows ridges where the bolt displaced some of the bracket. I’m still not sure how the motor could move since I tightened the nut on the red ball adjuster screw as hard as I could with a 17mm open end wrench.
Which motor mount clamp should I order from Comet Kart Sales? I can’t tell which one I have and I am not too keen to order an aluminium clamp because aluminium is a softer metal (I think).
I hate to ask this since the answer seems to be “no” for all karting fasteners, but is there a torque spec for this?
I purchased our first Odenthal mount for this season and after using it for some winter practice sessions am kicking myself for not doing it sooner. Chain tightening is so much more consistent and the mount holds the motor way better than the old OTK magnesium mount did (I stripped 3 of them last season ). I haven’t used the 206 Odenthal, but what I see on the KA is way better than the 206 mounts we used as well.
@Numbah26, I tighten them by hand. I use a hex bit on the end of a 3/8" drive ratchet. The ratchet handle is fairly long, so I was able to apply a lot of torque.
I have flattened the chassis tubes over-tightening. I have damaged butterflies from over tightening and from coming loose. On the OTK stock motor mount in particular I stripped the holes out of the mounts 3 times last season. They just didn’t hold and came loose on track unless you tightened the out of em…but then you start to damage tubes, butterflies, or motor mount threads. With the JTP 206 mount that came with our first kart we had some issues, but nothing like with the OTK sock mount for the KA.
@Chuck_Goodson what is a butterfly? And how did you know that the chassis tubes were flattened? Were they obviously deformed, or did you measure them with a caliper?
Edit: also, did you get the 5 degree slant mount or the 10 degree slant mount? Which is better?
Butterfly is term often used for the lower clamp. The part you posted.
The degree of the mount will depend on chassis and motor. We stayed with 5 degree for the KA to match stock and not have to redo the left side exhaust support.
For LO206 you will see lots of opinions and ideas tossed about. The standard Odenthal EZ-Set is 8 degree. Most folks find they need some tilt for clearance of the intake over the rear tire. Also need some for chain clearance of chassis on some chassis and sprocket combinations.
Realized I didn’t answer this. You could visually see that I had over torqued the old LO206 mount and deformed the tubes. There was no need for a caliper.
Clamping the mount to the tubes the way most motor mounts works is okay - some of the times. Mechanically it’s not the best method to prevent movement. A stop bolt pushing forward on the mount is a much more positive way to hold the engine in place. Unfortunately it’s not always convenient or speedy for quick chain adjustment. The clamps hold the engine down, the stop bolt keeps it from sliding.
We run Margay Ignites with the 8 degree Odenthal mount which is spec for the kart. The Ignite has a stop bolt on the frame. I’m not sure whether stop bolts are fitted on other kart brands. The only time the chain comes loose for us is if we don’t tighten the motor slider bolts.
@tjkoyen how is my motor moving then? I’m using my stop bolt. I’m sure some of it is chain stretch, but I bought a pre stretched chain and it shouldn’t stretch so much in one session.
). I haven’t used the 206 Odenthal, but what I see on the KA is way better than the 206 mounts we used as well.
out of em…but then you start to damage tubes, butterflies, or motor mount threads. With the JTP 206 mount that came with our first kart we had some issues, but nothing like with the OTK sock mount for the KA.
