What is the mechanism for a vortex bendix failure? I’ve tried cleaning them and that doesn’t seem to ever work. Am I cleaning them wrong or is there something inside that is wearing out?
Is there a tried and true way of cleaning a Bendix for a Rok engine?
Are you cleaning them to the point there is no lubricant on/in them? I haven’t run the Vortex, but every other engine KA/X30/Rotax I try to keep it slightly lubricated.
Yes. Normal bearing lube should be good right? I’m certain that I’m doing something wrong. My local track has a lot of sand.
Same here living in the desert of Phoenix. If it’s getting caked with sand then try a more dry lubricant. Something like a graphite or PTFE/silicone. Adding grease might be making it worse. Starter shouldn’t really be doing much work at all during a race day so it can be run pretty dry.
Welcome to the world of TaG karting, where bendix, relays, starters and flywheels fail at any moment’s notice without any warning prior and without much of a reason.
Direct drive is the waaaayyyyy
After our Sunday race at Rok FWT rd 1, we lifted the kart on the stand, and start pushing to head back to the pits. With no hands near the buttons, the kart tried to start itself. Not good. Others were complaining the kart would shut off hitting curbs aggressively. They need to switch to the Iame style harness, with big buttons that can handle the current.
If your Bendix got wet, you can flush it with WD 40.
I agree, its so much fun ligning up near the front, and then the Bendix, Starter, Startrelay, start button ect fail.
I take a jumpbox with me to the track and use it every time possible just to save the wear and tear on the starting system. Typically this means I only need to use the on-board starter if I have something happen on the track itself, and never in the paddock. As mentioned in the thread, these systems have a horrible reputation through their history to this day.
Is this why my x30 starter never seemed to work?
Its a 20 dollar part in mondokart not the genuine one but still very honest. I try them in 2 occasions with great results.
Nah, shifter is the way - push it downhill for 5 meters in neutral, hop in, pull back to secod gear, and go!
$20 euros plus shipping. Closer to $60 once landed
Maybe you got the same part in the united states from a shop near your home ??
Shifter is technically “direct drive”
Dry clutches don’t count 
I’ve never seen this done. Do you just use a regular jump box for this or something special?
I guess, I probably used the wrong terms - a lot of people with karting experience probably know what I mean, but for clarity I should have said “external starter”. You can get them from kart shops or even used. I had mine left over from my KT100/HPV days, but I always like to have it handy because you just never know. It frequently gets called into use by other at the track as well. 
I never really paid to much attention to these I just assumed they weren’t tag karts. That’s for the idea.
While true they aren’t for TAG karts, they are for motors with no onboard starter, but they can be used on TAG karts by spinning the crankshaft. This means you need access, so you might have to have a hole in the side pod to allow the external starter to come into contact with the clutch nut.
True in some cases, but actually if you put an extended socket on the shaft of the external starter it will likely reach the crankshaft nut just fine, unless you have your engine pushed wayyy forward.
