What is the cheapest kart class besides Lo206?

Seems like tillotson is more of a thing across the pond where they have no lo206. I have a pal in Holland who started out racing Tilly with a team there. He’s now doing x30.

In my club we race $1,000 race ready karts very regularly. I don’t agree with your comment where you say if you can’t afford a used 206 package you shouldn’t be racing. Regional clubs can put karts on the track for cheaper and if you are on a short budget, this could mean the difference between racing karts and sitting on the sidelines.

I would be scared to go racing on something that costs $1,000. The kart I just bought/ re sold was one of those. The brakes were absolutely trashed and a 100% danger/safety issue for a new person getting in that would have no clue how to fix them. I’m all about getting new people into the sport, but the fact is it’s just a sport that requires a significant initial investment. The argument remains, a 206 is the cheapest entry point.

Not only that Reggie but how help do you keep one jerk from cheating and out spending you on mods? At least with LO206 the bottom end is sealed at the factory. The cheaper option seems like it could get a lot more expensive in the long run.

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Our club solves this problem by sealing the Clone Block and the Clone Head. Basically very little of the motor can be touched, everyone has the same engine package, the same spec clutch and the same spec gear ratio. It is the cheapest way that I have seen to go sanctioned racing. Obviously there are big drawbacks with running a Local Sealed Regional Class. The Briggs 206 is the best choice for a beginner, but the OP asked what the Cheapest Class was, and in my club the cheapest class is sealed spec clone.

You prevent people from cheating by having knowledgeable people who actually TECH the rule set for that engine/class and then enforce the rules. But you’re right the Lo206 does prevent a lot of things…

I mean I come from a club that used to tech the top 5 of every class and randomly select the top 3 to be torn down and look ed at with a fine tooth comb, then handed you your $1000+ Briggs flathead to you in a box and said see ya next race!

What are rules if you don’t enforce them?

Here’s a summary of the engines and classes we have:

  1. 225cc. This is our fastest racing engine, the one ahown in the AMP ad Dean Teter posted. It primarily comes sealed as the 225RS — that is the version used in the T225 class in the US, which allows for any chassis, amd as part of our T4 program, which is spec class of engine-chassis-tire. It can be unsealed or purchased as a 225R (no S, no seal) for open classes or dirt racing. We are releasjng a 225RD specific for the dirt, which will have an analog coil among a few other components preferred for the dirt.

  2. T4. This designation refers to the complete pakcakge of 225RS plus chassis plus tires that runs as a spec class in the US and around the world.

    1. We have several versions of this engine. The 212E is an EPA ceritified engine commonly used in recreational motorsports or the Lredatoe Class. It has a standard block, a chinese carburetor and a amd a Hemi head. The 212EE is the electric start version of it. The 212R is a little more race spec, with our racing block amd non-hemi racing head, alonk with one of our PK carbs. The 212RR is a rental spec and not really meant for consumers. The 212-sb1 is a short block that allows you to add on whatever stage components you prefer. All of them are generally legL under 212 class racing, but some tracks dont allow them under local rules.
    1. A clone class engine with our block, racing head and PK carb.

Yes! Actually it was just preliminarily approved by Karting NSW. It will run in a few test sessions and if all goes well it will will be fully approved with its own class. You’re going to love it!

Yes, the T4 class as a spec class is more affordable as a whole initialky because the package is less expensive than the 206 plus any other chassis and then on a running basis because you don’t have as many chassis set up issues you need to deal with. Everything is mated to give best racing experience. The T225 engine is about the same price as a 206 once you put everything on it, but I thinks our spare parts are a little more affordable.

I recommend you try the T4 package. The way everything works together is essentialky what you are describing.

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One plug for the Tilly T225, that I was not aware of until I ran with 3 for the first time a few weeks back. At $599 for the Lo206, that the engine only and plan on another $300 + \ - for all the stuff that goes on it.

The Tilly I came to realize is $899 but that is for the motor and all the excessories (minus the engine mount). So the cost between the two is actually much closer than I realized.

One thing I did notice was each of the Tilly guys had 2-3 spare carburetors with them, as I guess the carb on the T225 is very problematic. All three of them had extra carbs, as they need to be cleaned frequently or else they are very temperamental. :man_shrugging: At the end of the day, each guy swapped out their carbs as that is what they’ve learned to do to combat this issue.

I was on my Lo206 and on a 1 mile track, they were about 2 seconds faster than me. Guys I spoke with said they went from Lo206 to the TIlly T225 and they love the extra speed. The carb thing they said was the only annoying thing they have to deal with, as all three said they are always chasing carb issues. (I have no idea what fuel they were running)

It was an interesting day at the track, as prior to this I had never seen that engine package before. :+1:

As someone who ran the 225. It’s far from dialed. It’s fun when it works.

But until the reliability comes it’s not going to gain any traction.

Give us an engine and engine chassis combo price before you claim it’s cheaper. It’s just talk without numbers. Unless I missed it and you told us somewhere.

What spare parts do you need for an engine? I use exactly 0 spare engine parts on a 206. Maybe 1 new spark plug a year.

We have a chassis/engine spec combo for 206 that accomplishes what you’re talking about. It’s called Ignite.

95% of 206 guys don’t run Ignite because we don’t want a spec chassis.

Forgot to mention this the first go. But I had one thought I forgot to mention about the T225.

  1. I found it odd that an Irish carburator manufacturer would outsource the engine builds to China, yet its the carb that is the problematic piece of that puzzle. Maybe Lindsay High can unpack what issues he found owning the Tilly :man_shrugging:

I think the Tilly is cool, but I don’t think I’d be happy going from an high quality American made product that is proven and is know for it’s tolerances as far as manufacturing quality is concerned; then go an unknown Chinese built engine package with questionable reliability. I’d love to pick up 2 seconds, but not bad enough to take that sort of a chance.

But to each their own, as all three guys I met were Lo206 converts and they seemed happy.

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Two biggest issues. Carb. And coil.

Carb cross over tube has 2 90 degree fittings are press fit. And don’t stay pressed.

The carb manifold leaks like crazy. Will constantly chase that.

The coil doesn’t stay put. Doesn’t matter how much loctite or how much torque you put on it.

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Both the 206 and the Tillotsons are “Globally sourced”. Although 206 assembly is done in Milwaukee.

Personally I judge products on their own merits vs how they are sourced. You can get quality from Chinese manufacturers and you can get garbage from others. It’s more down to the product owner’s budget, standards and how they are enforced than the location a product is made.

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It sounds like the Tillotson needs a bit of work to be reliable. Briggs has done a very good job for a spec 4 stroke engine. I guess for some looking for a bit mor power the Tillotson msy be worth it but the Briggs makes plenty of power for my kids and has been so reliable that i have no reason to look anywhere else.

So Lindsay you went from Lo206, to T225, and then got out of 4 stroke all together and went 2 stroke? Was that your evolution through the sport? If thats the case I bet you have alot of recent insight.

Yep. Started out 206. Last year I dabbled in 100. Our winter series introduced a 225 class. So I bought one with intention of using it as a practice motor to just pound out laps. But due to its reliability I just got rid of it.

Now I have a KA and a X30. I just spent the day pounding out laps in the x30

Worth noting that Karting NSW is not the peak body for Karting in Australia.

God i hope its not approved to run through the rest of the country, there are too many classes as it is.

One thing that I dont think is understood from outside australia, is that there are less than 7000 active Karters here. Adding another Spec class to further dilute entries will not be a good thing.