The tracks we drive on are 1000m long and not very fast
Well in general thicker tubing will be more rigid. But maybe it’s a 32/30 combo like many are.
And to the brakes, also the changing rear axle with 5 mm each, has anyone tried it? The braking system is ven11
In a very general sense an all 30mm will have “more grip” than an all 32mm chassis, as it will be able to flex more, a 30/32 will be somewhere in the middle.
Comparing 2 chassis that are 3 years apart in age is not really comparing apples with apples though.
One will have significantly more wear in it, unless it has seen very little use the 30mm 2017 will be starting to show age related fatigue. Which may or may not be a problem depending on the level of competition and your skill level.
I gave it to two people who drive a crg and they both said that there is no traction in the back compared to theirs. I tried all possible settings like front different axles and rear axle height and lap times were the same …
What category do you run? The two chassis you mention are going to be quite different from one another.
kz engine category tm kz10c
The older BirelArt frame could be past it’s prime, and maybe that’s why you’re seeing less responsiveness to chassis adjustments. The Maranello RS10 appears to be a copy of a CRG Road Rebel. Not sure if it’s an exact copy, as it could be different material for all I know. Either way, the Road Rebel and its derivatives have a long standing history of success in the gearbox category.
I think that replacing the chassis with a new one instead of the new r1 engine will give more difference in lap time
Depends on the chassis make but IMHO not much has changed in Karting in the last 10 years except bodywork and engine packages. The chassis being sold today are almost identical to the ones being sold 10 years ago. How a chassis holds up depends on its material and manufacture some chassis will last a very long time without falling off and others have a limited shelf life.
I would say so. That and driving. I recall seeing the thread about the marginal gains to be found by going to the R1. The difference between a good 10c and a good R1 is only going to be realized by a top-level driver. If you feel you’re at that point then it could be worth considering for the track you run, but otherwise I would first focus on driving, and then look at a fresh chassis.
I have already bought the Federer chassis with which I now drive the World Cup and finished fourth. the chassis was driven for four days.
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