Is the connection to the battery a tech item (SKUSA, etc)?
I installed a Li battery, and want to simplify the connection to the battery to a single connector by using a Deutsch DTP, and having a pre-made pig-tail permanently attached to the battery.
Not as far as I’m aware. Certainly over here it’s not a tech scrutineering item.
Dan,
How many Amps do you think a X30 starter pulls? I have not verified it. Maybe I should…
The std wire in the harness is 10G I believe, based on what I measured. DTP contacts can handle 10G if you use the stamped contacts. Now, you may still be right about the DTP being borderline… 10G wire is normally rated for 30A. Deutsch DTP contacts are rated for 25A.
For reference, a Honda CRF450X draws about 24-25A when starting. Yamaha R1 draws 100-120A…but that is a 4 cylinder 1000cc motor. I tend to think a dinky little 125 2T will be OK at 25A.
Thomas, I did with withdraw my post because I noticed after reading in the linked info the connectors could handle 10 gauge wire with the stamped version. After looking at my Leopard harness, the battery terminal leads appear to be 10 gauge (about 2.5mm wire dia.). The wires are not clearly marked. The stamped version terminals could be OK.
I little knee jerk reaction on my part. I thought for sure the wire was 8 gauge.
When I make Deutsch connection at work, I never use the stamped style (pain in the butt) ,I have the proper Deutsch crimp tool for the solid barrel style pin and socket ends.
It’s a bit of a gray area. Per the rule book you’re only allowed to run the package as it comes from IAME. But I’ve seen people cut the spade connector ends off and put eyelets to bolt directly to the Shorai batteries. A Deutsch connector would be way easier but they might see it as an advantage somehow and make you take it off. It’s just the luck of the draw.
Yeah…solid contacts are way better and easier to crimp.
Maybe it is not worth the risk… I just want a simple single point connection in case I ever have to change a batter on the grid in a panic.
I was wondering what the end goal was. Does your new battery type not have flat blade terminals?
Nope…and the captive nuts are easy to drop…
Are you running a local club series or regional/national series?
The reason I ask is because many series allow external handheld starting on the grid if your battery fails to start the engine. And the rules may also state that this is approved as long as the complete battery and onboard starting system is as supplied from factory and functions as it should.
Also, the battery is not needed to run the engine. It’ll run with the battery disconnected.
Sorry if I’m repeating information you already know.
You could always use a bolt-on spade tip. My last batter had bolt-on leads with they and worked fine.