For $600 a set of the AMV might as well try to find the real thing imo.
I have to buy parts from Germany from time to time to get Motorsport parts from the manufacturer.
In my experience you will be getting a bill in the next couple weeks for import duties.
You will still be ahead of getting from a US vendor but not by as much as you think you are now.
If you’re running forged / complex-shaped magnesium wheels for additional stiffness, would you be better off with an aluminum wheel of the same wall thickness and 150% of the Young’s modulus?
Aluminum wheels are usually used as rain wheels because they heat up super quick. Not sure aluminum wheels are used for much else. Am not sure tho.
So if people are saying the MXL has “more grip” than the MXC, does that mean that it will make the kart tighter, or that it will plant the outside rear better while staying free? The difference between those two things is super important. If they do make it tighter, is it worth trying to tune around it instead of just using the MXC?
MXL and MXC are free off the turn. i.e less rear (traction) grip. Remember when talking about a track gripping up we are always talking about too much rear traction grip. Not side bite. MXL/MXC are causing the rear inside wheel to unload quicker and stay unloaded longer. I dont know whether that is because they are stiffer or less stiff. I could argue both ways. Would love to get some 3d models of the rims and analyse with my FEA software.
Also don’t get confused the MXL and MXC are different rims and there will be situations were one is a better choice than the other.
Video explains OTK wheels.
Funnily enough the MXL havnt been that popular here in NZ. Most prefer and use the MXC still.
That video was bomb. Bonus point for him not going into the hype about wheel “flex”.
I’ve yet to see anything to substantiate that wheels flex. As soon as I do, I’ll change my mind.
It’s mostly heat dissipation and volume. Followed lastly by the damping qualities of “magnesium” alloy vs aluminum.
If these wheels flex, it’s where the web of the flange/hub meets the outer circumference. A thicker and webbed flange would flex less… But I have to think that the spindle and the sidewall both flex enough that any rim flex is imperceptible… I, too, would love to see some FEA done for a more definitive answer. I can’t imagine they flex much at all or they’d fail and break out after a number of cycles…
James, I’m with you on the flex. We need to stop talking about flex. In the 50mm era, flex is almost immeasurable. I think dampening is more prevalent. Think about how much the tyre deflects. Is a 1mm (and that would be super generous) of flex going to change slip angles and jacking?