I have ceramic CRG ven05 brakes on my DR kart. I’d like to order more brake pads (front and rears) but I’ve quickly realized that there are a plethora of pads out there without much info. I’ve seen blue, green, and red pads all labeled for the ceramic discs. There is frixa, which as I understand it is basically aluminum and has been phased out due to explosive issues. There is the regular steel brakes, which I believe are typically run with CRG red pads. I have red pads in the chassis now but I don’t know what compound is on those red pads. Is it the same exact pad that is used with the steel brakes?
Can we create a list of the correct pads to use with each braking system?
That would be great, I understand your frustration. Brake systems is where chassis manufacturers make their money. It’s hard to find drop in aftermarket replacement parts for frame specific brake setups too.
Red - Steel
Green - Ceramic
Gold - Steel, higher friction material than Red
Now the pads in my chassis are Galfer brand, made for ceramics and Red in color.
On my front pads I have the 3 markings:
61/FR/20
01/FR/14
82/FR/11
On the Rear pads I have the follwoing 4 markings:
16/FR/08
01/01/ET
14/FR/11H
81/82/FR/11
These pads have a much better feel than the CRG Green pads. I’d like to find their actual part number so I can order them. As well as make a list for others to benefit from. I believe there are also Blue pads available for some application.
Yes I found those pads from Sharkshifter (rears only), but they are black, and it does not say if they are for steel or ceramic. I’m sure others have had this issue and confusion, so I’d love to get these questions answered and create a list here for anyone to search and use.
So what is sounds like is Galfer makes the ceramic pads for CRG and Sinter makes the Iron pads for CRG.
Maybe Galfer change the composition of the ceramic pads when comparing the Green to the Red ceramic brake pads because I have found much better pressure modulation and initial (cold) bite with the Red pads over the Greens.
Hi guys,
i have the same issue, i have CRG ROK GP (single speed) now i have on the rear green pads so it will be ceramic (duralcan) brake disc. Any chance to buy a new one in Europe?! Is there any notice about how thick brake disc should be before replacing him?
I am thinking that ceramic disc + pads will work better in dry conditions, but is more expensive then steel brake option. 72238308_2759994607397518_2649872814496022528_n|666x500
I have used red pads on my CRG shifter kart with iron rotors. Front pads wear quite fast - have used two sets this summer. How ever I havent had to change rear pads - just shimmed them once to push pistons back in. Brake bias is neutral
There are also orange and black colored pads for iron rotors. Bought both as couldnt find info about compound. Dont know which one is harder so fitted one orange, one black to each caliper. Havent yet measured wear
The orange ones are the stock pads your kart comes with, they have a tendency to grab and lock. Like you apply the brake progressively and get little braking action until the wheels lock.
Reds are much better, more controllable and progressive.
Green CRG I never tried, we’re using green stuff EBC pads just now they’re pretty good but wear fast.
Far as I know, green pads are for ceramic brake disc…Red, orange and black are for iron rotors. I want to keep my ceramic brake disc as long as could be.
Then is possible to switch to an iron disc with red or orange brake pads…
On the front i have iron discs.
I have like 1-2 mm pads left on each side…its recommend to keep pads at least 5-7mm each side on the rear so i need to buy anyway. Pads are no problem to buy, but ceramic rotor is a problem…Kartstore i know as well Mondokart, but there is no ceramic brake disc
But the prices for ceramic brake disc are insane…So when the disc will be wear out, i will switch my brake disc to iron with red pads
I’m surprised no has mentioned the problem of ceramic brakes failing EXPLOSIVELY in a hard braking zone. I saw it happen at a national event at our Tucson track. Result was not funny. It is my understanding that ceramics can no longer be used in many sanctioned events, either in the States or in Europe. If you see a crack promulgating from the hole where the fat pins are located out into the disc, you are in danger of sudden failure when you would want it the least. I had some (I got sold on reducing rotating mass, i.e., a lighter disc), saw the crack starting, and went back to steel.
I have been thinking about upgrading to ceramic rotors (to save weight ) but didnt know about shattering issues
My iron brake set up has seen 3-4 seasons of racing. The fat pins have eaten away aluminum from carrier and a bit from rotor. Front rotors have now almost 1mm play in radial direction.
How tight fit is the new set up ? Can you feel any play between the rotor and carrier ?
I suspect excessive play causes out of balance vibrations here and there. I have been thinking either buying new components or renovating by machining holes little bit bigger - make them round and turn fatter pins
I did little machining to rear rotor by truing up the sides. Rotor also had discoloration from heat and presumed it would have hard spots. But none. Im a machinist - sometimes hard spots need grinding instead of turning. But not in this case. The rotor machined easily to a very nice finish. The casting has very nice, small crystal structure
The rotor should float around on the carrier laterally quite a bit on a VEN05 system. From memory I’d say at least 2mm if not more. They are pretty “flappy”