Hello, I have a very big problem with slipping on fast turns. The track has a lot of rubber. The bigger the tire gets, the more it takes to slip, especially the rear. The seat is tillet t11 rear axle is medium stiffness
A couple questions.
What tyre are you running?
When you say it’s slipping, I take it you are referring to the rear end saying it is sliding around and not staying planted into the track?
May I ask what you mean by when the Tyre gets bigger it slips less? Are you running different Tyre sizes, or are you referring to the fact that when the Tyre is under more load it tends to flatten out and get slightly wider naturally?
I drive with a green vega. I mean that when there is a lot of grip on the track, the kart starts to slide in the fast turns. I was told to try a very soft rear axle and that I should make the chassis as soft as possible.
So as the grip level goes up, the kart oversteers more? Somewhat unusual, but sounds like the balance is too far forward. It might need some grip removed from the front end, so narrower front, less caster, softer front bar etc.
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lower caster, reduce rear width to 139.5 cm, add some camber to slow down corner entry 
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I drive without a front bar. The seat is as far back as I am 183 cm tall
Personally I would decrease caster, when it grips up you don’t need as much mechanical jacking because the grip will do it for you. So my 2 cent is that you overload the tires and it starts to flat slide instead.
How many seat struts? You can try to remove them completely 
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I have two props, but pilots who are very fast also have 2 props. I tried to loosen them but it continued to slide terribly. What axle should I try very soft or very hard
As others have said, i think you should focus on calming down the front end of the kart before touching the rear. In this situation, a different axle is not going to fundamentally “change” the behavior of the kart. It will either mask the issue and improve drivability or make things worse. Also, i’m not mega familiar with CRG’s axles tuning path, but putting a soft axle on a KZ is usually not recommended.
I’ve noticed your front spindles are also in the up position, with the washer at the top, raising front ride height. Try putting the washer at the bottom to raise the spindle and lower front ride height, and see the effect.
Conversely, you can also try putting shorter rear hubs at the same overall rear width. As Luka pointed out, it is also possible that you’re sliding because the tires are overloaded due to too much grip and “unhook”, instead of sliding.
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This 
Definitely a way I would go, a shorter hub could give more bite mid/exit😁
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I ride the chassis at the top because there are slight bumps in some places but I don’t think the problem is because everyone rides this way as I see. The pressure I drive is 0.8-0.85 bar. Is it a problem that the chassis is 32mm? A lot of people tell me that the 30mm works much better
I would try anyway to have medium height at the front. I tend to not go to far away from base setup😁
32mm is perfectly fine, actually good for your height to. A 30mm would flex even more in that case. I have all 32mm on my Energy Kz and I’m only 177cm. Feels very well balanced, but I do run the floor pan loose and no front bar in. Neutral caster, and 140cm rear width with 1 strut each side on the seat
Seat is 12cm measured from axle to the back of the seat
What tires? 0.8-0.85 seems kinda high for Kz. I run LeCont SVC Prime and running 0.65bar
crg has no front mid rise. Either at the top or at the bottom.
we only drive green vega
Then 0.85 bar is way to much. 0.6bar starting pressure
is .85 hot or cold pressure ?
If its hot pressure, then you’re pretty good. If it’s cold pressure, forget everything we told you and set it at .52 all around and watch your kart transform 
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0.85 hot. The Thursday and Friday before the race was a bit of a drag, but Saturday and Sunday was terrible
Fellow road rebel owner here. Here are my experiences after two seasons.
I would take all the caster out from the top sniper and mount second sniper kit to the underside and take caster out until the driver can steer in the corner and drive the fast line. If he tries to run the same line as the fast guys and the back end slips out - theres too much caster = rear wheel lift. Crg also sells a eccentric pill to the underside if one doesnt fancy another sniper.
Shifter needs to have its rear wheels close to the ground to make good lap times. Any excess lift will deform the outside tyre out of shape and that deformed tyre wont hold the horsepower a shifter makes. It just slides
Turned down from the middle crg black nylon front bar gave best compromise (pressure )to the front tyres - the front remained soft enough so curb cutting didnt make the front nervous
I set my fastest laps when the seat was 10 -15mm closer to the rear axle than factory recommendation. Tillet t11 also. One seat strut on each side. I prefer struts that have bend in them so they are not like an on off switch applying pressure
I ran the first season with crg medium axle, swapped hardest crg axle on the second season. Harder axle did increase rear tyre pressure to the ground but that effect will go to waste if theres too much caster.
Coming out of the corners - if the rear tyres arent giving enough thrust - move the seat back in few millimeter increments. With a shifter weight on the rear tyres is good. But if the seat gets too back, the front understeers in corner entry - no matter what adjustments you make to the front end it wont stop
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I would follow the suggestion to take a click of caster out, and also lower the front ride height. CRG makes “half spacers” that allow you to change the front ride height in smaller increments. With past chassis I’ve had from the CRG factory (DR and Zanardi) we would ALWAYS lower the front as the track grip levels came up.
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