CW Kart USA / AMP Karting: My Journey Into Chassis/Engine Building

It’s winter. You’re bored. You have a welder. You feel like you have a solid grasp on chasiss dynamics. What do you do? If you’re me, you get the cockamamie idea to build chassis.

Sometime back in December, I bought some sheet steel and some square tube and got to work.



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I kind of knew what I wanted. Jigging the table up was next:





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Looking good! Are you building something unique or a variant of an existing design? Looks on point so far!

Are you going to cut holes in the “bed” so you can weld all the way round?

Its pretty key (so ive been told) to complete the welding while the chassis is clamped as it’ll twist with the heat. Then unclamp when its cooled down.

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Matthew – Wow, building your frame, that is ambitious. I’m curious so a few questions. What type of tubing bender are you using? What material and size (inch or mm) is used for the frame? How did you verify that the plate is planar ie not twisted?

Good luck and keep posting.

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I’ve always wanted to do this, aka make my dad do it because I’m not a fabricator. Really cool stuff, excited to see this adventure play out!

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I suddenly want a gun metal gray chassis.

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They’ll be tacked on the table then pulled out and put on a spinning stand, then retabled.

Corner alternating, heat control and gas flow should keep 'em from pulling and twisting.

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JD2 Model 3 with a Pneumatic/Hydraulic conversion. I’m currently making a rolling stand for it since it doesn’t have to be anchored down anymore for the ratcheting handle. I’ll post a few pics of that later.

I worked with my supplier on the sheets and table build to make sure it was flat via shims, clamps, levelling lasers and straight edges. It was a pain and if I do it over, I will do it way differently.

Mixed tubing sizes for the chassis. 1.25", 1.125", 1"

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Respect and skills! Awesome post here. Please provide progress updates.

Hope it works, my brief experience with a UK chassis maker had the frame clamped in for the entire process with a rotating jig. But sounds like you’re on the ball with the corner alternating etc.

You don’t have to share this because it can be your secret :wink:
Wall thickness? 4130? BK.BKW,BK+S,GBK,NBK?

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Is this for a LO or 2T? If its the LO, why not go back with the engine on the left?

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Making chassis for 206, KA/X30, and Shifter. Jig is setup to do left or right engine location.

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It is 4130 tubing. Wall thickness varies. :grin:

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Id really like someone to try Docol R8. Id be curious how the ductility change would effect chassis flex.

I know Docol has been tried.

There are some out there

There’s definitely some R8 chassis available.

ill have to do some googling. Not that i am going to run out and buy one. A lot of race cars switched to Docol as they have been less prone to cracking in wrecks.

I ran a Docol R8 chassis a few years ago. I didn’t like it much, the design was too stiff, but the thing took a beating and never bent.

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