Clear powdercoat is standard at Factory (sorry for the advertising hijack, Matt)
Onboard for this! Can’t wait to see how it progresses
There is an old saying that some have more money than brains, you sir have BOTH! Bravo!
Very cool project! Love watching the ideas and work from folks that understand and visualize things on a higher plane.
Is the first chassis for 206? Linkage would be interesting for a shifter.
Yes, lefty chassis for 206. 2 cycle chassis will be normal engine location.
Been quietly plugging away behind the scenes here and Proto1 is currently loaded in the back of the pickup to go to New Castle tomorrow. Pics and feedback coming at the end of the day!
(Last year’s nose and fairing with Chris’s OG side pods from his 80 shifter.)
Lots to unpack from my trip to New Castle today…
Disclaimer: I’m not good at NCMP in the slightest. I got maybe once a year and am 100% a mid-pack driver there.
From start of day to end of day, we shaved 5 seconds off. The main goal was to just get a feel for the kart and try to learn how it responds to different things.
We tried some things that didn’t work, and found some things that did.
The chassis was quite a bit softer than expected and most of the time was spent trying to keep it hiked up on the outside rear, as it wanted to sit back down and flat slide on me.
Was following on race monitor a bit. Made some good strides today
Is it an illusion or are you running really narrow like a 4s?
I was pretty narrow.
51.5" rear, medium TYCA cut to 960, no inserts.
I don’t know what the fronts were… Whatever an OTK is with standard OTK hubs buried with no spacers.
From memory, I think that would be about 45.5” up front
Are you going to be using the Haase Runner stuff? Thought I read that somewhere.
Was your butt able to feel if the inside fell just from rate of lift etc or if outside let go and dropped it? Wondering since it’s softer than you thought, if being wider rear could help keep outside planted and not over load it.
Runner spindles, yes. They match to OTK aside from the actual stub being about 1cm longer.
It’s definitely just dropping the inside and not staying up. Going from caster all out to neutral helped. Raising rear ride height helped. Wider rear will likely help as well. That was the next step of I had another session.
Chassis looked great on the track for your first time out with it! I got a good view of all sides of it out there. It’s nice looking too, really nice welds and fab work!
Had a great time running with you yesterday. I still can’t belive I let you guys get under me in the last corner of the last lap, but I had it coming haha. I can’t wait to get to Whiteland and get a driving lesson from you guys when its done… Haven’t been on that track in 25 years!
Did you decide against it being a lefty chassis?
I can still make them lefties. I made this first one normal so I can swap back and forth.
Wow! What a day!
Today was the season opener at the new and improved Whiteland Raceway Park and we brought home a “W” and some purple race laps on Proto1!
Heat: Threw chain on lap 2
Final: P1 (rain)
Heat: P2 (Fast Race Lap)
Final: DNF - Threw Chain running P2 with 2 to go. (Fast Race Lap) (rain)
Super satisfied with the day, since this is our third race weekend on the prototype chassis. We only get better from here!
I caught a little of that live show and saw your name. Nice work
Nice job Matthew, looks fantastic.
What are you welding with? I have a Hobart 210 MPV Mig that I use weling up Jeep stuff. Don’t think I’m skilled enough to pull off what your doing.
First time weldup was a cheap Amazon portable TIG machine. When I cut out the entire middle section and redid it, I used my Titanium Unlimited 200 on MIG.
I just got a new PrimeWeld MTS200 to do MIG work.