How is your trailer setup for Karting?

OK… it’s time to tap into the Kartpulse Hive Mind. I’ll (finally!) be getting a stacker for our two Margay Ignite LO206 karts. I have some E-track I took out of our 6x12 enclosed trailer when I did a complete gut and rebuild to haul the quarter midgets our kids raced. Now to the question: what is best/most stable way to keep a stacker in place in your trailer? The karts will be on the stacker facing opposite directions but since the stacker will be in the middle of the trailer because of tongue weight considerations, how do you secure the stacker to keep it from bouncing around or tipping under hard braking (hopefully that never happens… :roll_eyes:)? My current thought is to lock the stacker to the E-Track using the standard straps and rings to secure it. I’ve noticed in some of the pics the E-Track is run down the middle of the trailer. Any other suggestions on how to secure the stacker? I’ll be installing the E-track or whatever your guys suggest this weekend. TIA!

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I usually don’t. I secure karts to E-track with 4 straps each (2 on the Cs, 2 on the rear frame rails or axle by the hubs). Once you do that, the stacker is not moving

This is what I do with my Kart Lift kart stand. First of all, I wouldn’t tie the kart down very hard, might bend the kart if the trailer flexes. My trailer has 2 e-tracks on the floor. I use a 2x4 on the floor as the stop for front tires of the kart stand and then pull it tight against the 2x4 with crossed rachet straps. Put one of these on the ends of your 2x4 cut to fit so that it can be attached to the e-tracks.

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Then tie the back of the stand with crossed rachet straps just to keep it from flipping over in a front impact. Hold you kart down with bungees or one lightly tensioned rachet strap to keep it from sliding or popping off the stand.

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I have both of my karts on the stacker, facing the same direction, and secured to the stacker with velcro straps. I then just criss cross the straps to the E-Track and tighten them down. This has worked for me without fail.

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Similar to Michael I use Velcro straps to hold the karts to the stacker, both of mine face the same direction. I wouldn’t want to put constant tension into one of the kart frames for transport.

To secure the stacker in place I have 4 d-rings in the trailer which I use a ratchet strap to pull down each corner of the stacker. Most stacker stands have reinforced corners at the top with triangulated angle iron and I hook to that. Street we had a hole cut in theirs for this exact purpose. Kart lift has a more triangle cutout I use.

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@Zebug and @Kutschca Still learning here. Does having both karts facing the same direction (with the weight of the motors on the same corner) make the stand slightly unstable when pushing the stand, especially going up the ramp into the trailer? That was the logic for having the karts face opposite directions.

It’s easiest if they face the same direction because the way my stacker is made, they fit best going in one direction. Also, if they were facing opposite directions, they wouldn’t extend the same distance as each other. The weight of both motors on the same side has a no effect when pushing the stand or anything.

My only issue with pushing them in was when I got the toy hauler and the ramp was steeper and higher, and pushing almost 500 lbs up the ramp was tough. I solved that with a power winch.

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Here’s a pic with both karts on the stand.

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Wow, I’ve never seen one of these. I thought my little utility trailer was light and small, but this things blows mine away.

I know you’ve seen mine . . . electric kart stand + a double stacker.

kart lift stacker

IMG_1566

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Locks
Apple Air Tags
Insurance

Cheap, effective

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I’m getting old enough to make that look like a really good idea. :scream:

I picked up a 6x10 trailer that I pull behind a Volvo V60. I built a simple removable rack for the kart that is the same height as the kart dolly. This way I can simply pull the kart out onto the dolly all by my self. I also added a bunch of D-rings and will add some shelves later.



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So i used 2 trailers for racing. A 7x14 cargo, and a toy hauler. I have become increasingly frustrated with myself and my lack of organization, always forgetting things when switching between trailers, so ive decided to focus on setting up the cargo trailer, and make it easy to swap supplies between it and the toy hauler. Since we’re slow at work this week, i decided to start planning things out visually.

I’ve seen software to visualize furniture and the like, would be a useful tool for planning trailers, too. Did you find an application that is specific to it?

I use Solidworks, which is just a general purpose 3d modeling software, but quite expensive. There is a software called Fusion 360 which has similar capabilities to Solidworks, but has a free version for hobbyist use.

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Not quite finished but almost done. Don’t mind the mess. Tons of 110 outlets. Tv with Apple TV connection. AC. And need to add heat later for winter racing.

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Made a new sprocket rack for my trailer.

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Here is my mini utility trailer setup! Just a 4ft x 4ft Harbor Freight trailer with a 1/2" plywood deck and two 4x8 cross beams to get the sidepods above the trailer’s fenders. I put four eye bolts through the 4x8s and use NRS loop straps to secure the kart to the trailer. I went with this method so that I could tie the kart down by its frame while the strap forces are not pulling down on the frame as much as they are pulling linearly in opposing directions. The rear straps are crisscrossed (left eye bolt to right side of rear frame and vice versa). The front straps are not crossed but loop around the frame where the frame and lower front bumper bar connect. So the front two straps “pull” backwards while the rear two straps pull forwards. It is super stable and isnt going anywhere while also having minimal torque on the frame.

If you do get one of these HF trailers, check the tire pressures before you use it! One of mine was set to ~60 psi for some reason and I did not check it before my first trip. The trailer was bouncing all over the place over small bumps! With proper tire pressures, all is well and it pulls great! Not too shabby for ~$600 total. Could be pulled by basically any car due to its extremely low weight.

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Similar to my old setup! I used to use my '04 outback with a 4x4 trailer and roof rack!