Volvo V70 Kart Super Trailer – loading and fully loaded. Great for 5+ hour drives to Pitt Race and NY Race Complex. Avg over 70 mph and 30 mpg.
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It’s… beautiful.
I never got a chance to throw my kart in the back of my 850 wagon, but I suspect the fender liners would’ve worn out before I got to the track due to the cheap ebay coilovers it had.
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stock suspension on this baby. the GP guys recommend air springs.
Man. That is impressive.
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There’s a reality car show in here somewhere.
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X Claude, is that a 4ft wide trailer or 5ft wide?
Here is the trailer hitch carrier I bought 5’.
And, here is how it looks fully deployed.
And of course on track.
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I haven’t measured it but I bought it for $50!
I’m thinking it’s a 5ft wide I will measure when I have a chance
Hi everyone,
Also, Would a 6x12 be too large for 1 child and one kart? Also I can’t predict the future but it’s certainly possible one of my other kids may want a kart as well and then it would be two karts.
Josh
No such thing as a trailer that’s “too big”! 
In seriousness, that’s not a bad size. It’s nice to have a little spare room in there anyway to sit if it’s raining or something. Plus, it doesn’t matter what size trailer you get, you’ll fill it.
True. The big trailer turns into a hangout zone and well look at data in there too.
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We run a 6x12 v nose.
One kart on a stacker and one on the floor. Plenty of Room for both winch stands in front of the karts, the tool box, generator etc. 
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Quarantine has given me time to build out the 6x12 aluminum enclosed trailer I bought. Originally intended to continue karting for my son and I, then after purchase my daughter who showed no interest in karting wants to try it out, so figuring out how to transport 3 Karts, spares, tools, etc has been a fun exercise. Excuse all of the photos but hoping to give ideas to others as this thread has helped me as well.
Started with a basic interior, then removed the walls and added insulation. Painted the walls white while out and also applied trailer floor coating while everything was apart. After re-installation of the walls, took about 20 attempts at figuring out how things could fit in there. Then added the ramp door extension, aluminum ramp transition flap, e-track for toolbox, stands, etc. put the existing d-rings back in and added 2 more at the rear, as well as mounted a fire extinguisher. I just picked up a used aluminum tire trough that I’ll mount as well. Current plan is to have the toolbox, canopy, parts, and folding stands up front. Kid kart will go on the floor near the front and the 2 bigger karts on a stacker at the back. I’m sure it will constantly evolve as used. I did one test on a practice day with only my kart as shown.
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I’ve been doing similar work on mine. I tore away the cheap “balsa” pine wall (Wish they were just bare), split loomed all exposed wires, glued down PVC matt on the floor & ramp (which also got L trim), bolted transitionflaps at both ends of the ramp, & installed 7 ply over foam insulation on the sides. I’m now in the E/X Track install phase, & found a way to directly attach some heavy duty folding shelf brackets onto the E Track so I can stack 2 karts & have room for the tool cabinet, stand, etc. I’ll post pics when done.
My biggest gripe is that the front end of this trailer has no hard points to mount boards to, so I’m down a wall for utility, & since I’d like to secure the cabinet up front during transport, I need to come up with some creative workarounds, if possible.
Had to find a way to bring along with electric stand so came up with this modification on my 5x8 utility trailer.
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My son and I started racing 4 years ago. I converted an open flat bed trailer to a double deck trailer but needed a more secure and dry form of storage. I found a used aluminum 6x12 enclosed trailer with a single axle. I still had to use the family minivan to tow. I work at a vocational school and had the welding class make a lift and installed a ATV winch to lift the upper kart. The larger toolbox stays in the trailer. Everything we need for race day fits in the trailer but the driving gear goes in the van. The wing on the van was necessary for the wind resistance. Highway speed the van would not shift into an overdrive gear even empty. The Aeroplus wing made a huge difference and my milage while towing is in the mid teens, normally low 20’s without a trailer.
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Thanks for posting your experience with the aeroplus. I had considered one but couldn’t find good reports of using it. Is it pretty easy to take on and off? Or do you leave it mounted even when not towing?
Chris I attached to it to one of the vans removeable roof rack cross bars. In my case the bars attach with a hand tightened bolt (like a large thumb screw) that clamps on to the rack. It took some trail and error to clear the rails, but it takes me about 2 min to attach or remove it. I think you have to have a roof rack of some kind to make this work.
I was skeptical, as most of what I read about this style of deflector wasn’t positive, but those were mostly for pickup trucks towing 5th wheel campers. I think the further back on your roof you can mount it the better. It definitely make a difference.
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Thanks Robert that helps. I tow with a SUV so it has roof rails. My trailer is also ironically an aluminum EZ Hauler 6x12 with extra height (Pics earlier in this thread) so very appropriate comparisons.
I have a question for the guys that installed roof panels in V-nose trailers. How did you securely mount the plywood/pvc panel? The v-nose section does not allow self-tapping screws to be directly inserted without screwing them in at an angle. Any bracket or ideas would be helpful
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