Dunno if helpful but here’s a loaded triple stack.
I am 6’ for perspective. I think I am a couple inches higher by being on the ramp.
I am 6’ for perspective. I think I am a couple inches higher by being on the ramp.
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That’s helpful – looking up specs, a standard 6ft trailer usually has an interior height of around 6ft (and the ramp opening would be less than that). So, judging from your height, the triple stack wouldn’t be able to roll right in. There are some “extra height” trailers that add 1ft, and I’m guessing that would be cutting it close.
How hard is it to lift that third kart onto the top rack? Seems like it’d be really heavy or take more than just two adults?
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Not sure how tall Jerry’s trailer was. He ran a tent program so it was a pretty big towed one. You could stand comfortably on the inside and that stacker had space to spare.
I think you stack the first two, then add the next shelf and kart. 2 person job.
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unless your kart weighs 235lbs
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Mine:
Kart Trailer
All accessories are removable. 2 karts can be transported, 1 on the floor, & a 2nd on the bilateral folding shelves (which can also double as seat benches) mounted on the vertical E-track. A folding workbench is mounted on the right (will mount on either side) & folds out of the way; removable tire racks are mounted at the top of the vertical E-track. Additional horizontal E-track is mounted up front, with 2 swivel E-track format tie downs installed in the front corners of the floor that replaced the OEM tie loops.
PVC mat on the floor & ramp, with aluminum L trim on the sides, & aluminum plate in the floor at the nose to clean up the floor-wall joints, & additional L trim on the sides of the ramp to protect the edges. Transition flaps at both ends of the ramp are a must.
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For those of you using E track to strap down the karts, how do you have it positioned? I’m planning to transport my son’s kart in my enclosed trailer with the kart on the pit stand. I’m debating between installing the E track so the wheels of the pit stand straddle the tracks and then the straps can go straight along the track directly over the base of the pit stand, versus having the wheels inside the 2 E tracks, and criss crossing the straps in an X across the base of the pit stand.
I have the wheels inside the E-track and criss cross the straps. I do it this way because it also provides some lateral security versus just for and aft. It helps keep the kart from potentially swaying side to side.
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I have tires on top of the track and strap over the tires. I think I posted a pic earlier in this thread.
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Didn’t get much time to work on my trailer this weekend with a bunch of other projects underway, but I did manage to get my vinyl floor installed! Pretty happy with the end result, but may put down some aluminum flatbar “trim” around the exterior of the floor.
Chris, What did you use for the floor? How has it worn?
Larry
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QDTVZS5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I used this trailer floor coating for my floor and ramp. Overall I’ve been very happy with it. It doesn’t get slippery when wet, and has held up well to any chemical spills including cleaning up some of said spills with brake cleaner.
Probably the biggest complaint would be that depending on your floor material it’s not going to fill in any cracks or crevices. My floor is OSB so it still has that texture and it can hold dirt or rubber marks from tires making it look more dirty. Pretty minor complaint but worth noting.
The gallon size was barely enough to get 2 light coats down on my 6x12 trailer and ramp. Just roll/paint it on though so nice and easy to do.
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I looked at this approach, but opted for the PVC mat in the end. I don’t regret the decision, but the ramp will still need tack strips.
You fabbed it? Impressive. Looks like the 2 I bought (Another for the ground end of the ramp). Real benefit for moving heavy objects.
Well it helps that I work for a trailer manufacturer and have access to a massive hydraulic shear and brake press!
The trailer I bought came with a 12" plywood flip down transition on the end of the door, so I only needed to do the one.
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So did mine, but I wasn’t going to keep it. Aluminum is more durable & stronger, so it can be thinner, making for smoother transition onto the ramp, especially with heavier objects like a loaded tool chest.
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So far I haven’t had an issue with the plywood transition, but I’m also not rolling a tool chest in and out. If I find its an issue in the future, I’ll shear another piece of checker plate and put it on.
What? No bathroom?? 
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My upscale track has a restroom.
Where is the best place to buy ramp extensions and those things that cover the gap between the door and the floor?