I’m looking to replace the thin garbage wood panel in my trailer with some OSB or plywood so I can actually hang stuff on the wall. How thick should I go? I was probably going to order either 3/8" or 7/16" OSB.
The 3/8" should be fine. That’s what most decent cargo trailers use, even the “HD” ones. You could always go to 7/16" but it’s probably not needed.
@Jim_Johnstone also…if you can find Drymax OSB or Plexcore, it might be worth getting that if it’s in the budget. Very moisture resistant and often used as an upgrade in many cargo trailers for the decking and walls.
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I’ve looked and can’t find a dealer in the area that sells plexcore or drymax. Might just have to stick with normal sheet goods. 7/16" OSB and 3/8" spruce plywood are similar price, so I’ll probably end up going with one of those and maybe brush a water sealer on it before I screw it in place.
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Water sealant would be a good idea, I came across this the other day.
It’s sounds epic, would be nice to paint the roof of the trailer in that, when they start selling it I’m going to try it.
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So I guess I went massive overkill. I’m doing 3/4 sanded plywood on the walls. It’s heavy as shit. But I’m tired of heavy things pulling out of the crappy OSB normally used.
This was my stopping point today. The gap at the front will get conduit for my wiring that will be going to outlets and lighting. Then I’ll cover it all with some trim. Right side will be getting shelving. Left side is the breaker box and a small shelf for other odds and ends.
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That built-in looks rad! Such a nice work surface and I love the tool chest. I definitely need to look into doing something like this for mine. Would love a work surface up in the v-nose or possibly a fold-down work-bench on the side. Might do a folding table tho for the upcoming weekend. 
I love how this is coming along. Gonna be really sweet when it’s done!!!
Be sure to come say hi this weekend. Weather seems to be all over the place. Personally hoping for rain. You running 206 heavy?
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I will absolutely stop by and say hey. Yeah, I’m running 206 Heavy. No chance I’ll be making the standard weight anytime soon. 
Ian Pirie mentioned he heard that Tillotson was gonna run this Sunday too. You hear anything about that? I thought it was starting next race. I could go either way on the weather. Would be interesting to try my Vega’s finally.
What is everyone doing for added security of their trailer?
Reason I bring this up is because there was a FB post this morning where a guys entire trailer was stolen with like 6-7 karts inside. 
Got me thinking about upgraded locks, maybe some sort of LoJack GPS tracker? I don’t know what I’d do if my trailer got stolen with how much I’ve spent on the trailer itself and all its contents.
For the rear doors, I’ve seen hidden shackle (aka hockey puck) locks where the entire locking mechanism is internal. Those seem like they would be a good idea. Here’s a link to one option.
For the RV door on the side, I think there are some upgrades, but I haven’t looked into them yet.
For the wheels, you can get a “boot” style lock, but honestly it would be just as easy for thieves to remove and replace the wheel.
I use two styles of coupler locks as well. One lock goes under the coupler. The other is a more standard coupler latch lock.
I really love this design for a coupler lock…but holy shit it’s pricy!
I also live at a dead end of a private drive and my place can’t be seen from the road. And I park my trailer in most of the time. So that helps. I’d be more worried about it walking off when I leave it at a track overnight.
I’ve definitely heard of Trailer Lo-jack systems that are GPS based. But haven’t looked into them. I’m curious to hear what everyone else is doing for security as well.
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Also, here’s a link to Proven Industries which makes a bunch of trailer security options.
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Wow- I had no idea there were so many different ways to secure a trailer. Good stuff and thanks for the links.
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Did some research, ended up coughing up the money for the proven lock. I keep my trailer in a gated facility with 24hr security and keyed entry and exit but you can never be to careful. Hopefully will keep me at ease if I have to leave on or more karts in there after a long track day. I’ll let you know how it works if you would like.
Thanks for recommending it!
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None of the locks will prevent them from getting it if they want it had enough. But most of the time all you have to do is find a way to make it difficult enough they will move on to the next trailer instead of yours. At least that is my way of thinking. I use the hockey pucks show above for the gack door and 2 locks on the trailer coupler.
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I use hockey puck locks on the ramp door and the man door, a boot style lock on one wheel, a coupler lock that has a ball that goes in the coupler and another lock on the coupler latch. I’ve also considered cementing a steel post in the ground where I park it and chaining it up. Of course like others have said, these are deterrents that hopefully make the thief say “too much hassle” and not going to actually stop anyone if they want it bad enough. So I got insurance on the trailer as well.
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So I bought this one, and then watched a review on YouTube of a guy smashing it to pieces since it’s cast aluminum. So I machined off the aluminum ball, and installed a 2 5/16" proper ball and welded the nut on the bottom. Now my theory is if someone smashes the aluminum part, at least there will still be a ball locked in the coupler to slow them down some more.
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Every once on a while some NASCAR trailer gets stolen from an Applebee’s parking lot.
My question is what is a thief gonna do with a stock car setup for racing? Become the fastest criminal with the briefest career?
On this episode of Road Kill . . .
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What companies are people using for trailer insurance? Standard auto insurance companies or other? What kind of rates are you seeing?