Yeah, ideally to print ABS or even nylon, I found that having an enclosure definitely helps. Most people make their own enclosures. The Raise 3D is pretty good and has a good build volume. But it is pretty expensive. The makerbot are overpriced junk. I wouldn’t even bother. Another good alternative is the Ender as mentioned by @OPmini
They have a mini version too, that is newer/cheaper and compact
Another option is the Flashforge Creator Pro, $600 on amazon. It’s basically a makerbot clone. It’s enclosed and has dual extruder. You can upgrade the extruder hot end to all metal for $37 from a company called micro-swiss to enable printing nylon.
This is the printer I use, but I’m sure there are better options, I just haven’t tried them.
This good info. Please go on…
Yeah I have a flashforge finder, it was my first printer. The flashforges are definitely little work horses, I have clocked over 2,300 hours on mine. But they aren’t very upgradeable, outside of the hotend from teflon lined to all metal and the build space is small compared to cr10s’ build space, and a cr10s 400 is only like $550. If I were you I would wait for a sale and buy, I got my cr10s on sale on amazon for $300 brand new, and then just upgrade the crap out of it.
New set of skids hot off the press! Into the UV cure oven tonight and onto the track tomorrow. Love this UV cure resin. Parts come out looking like a homogenous part without print lines. This is a very tough hard-wearing resin so we will see how it hold up against rumblestrips.
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Jealous! 20 characters
Thanks. Having a printer has probably the best tool I’ve purchased in quite awhile. After some tweaks and testing I may offer them to members here if there is interest. Wouldn’t charge more than materials and some of my time. I just like making cool stuff and helping others.
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What medium are you using. I didn’t realize there was a UV curing process. I am guessing that hardens the material for wear resistance?
It’s a resin system (SLS printing) instead of an extruded plastic (FDM printing). This material is very comparable to ABS and high temp. You can mix resins and adjust UV cure times to tailor the material. First attempt didn’t make it through session one today. Was wear resistant but brittle as glass.
I’m down.
Whatever factor(s) need adjusting to impart flexibility, my guess is the abrasion wear resistance will be in the balance.
A lot of cool parts here. Does anyone have STL or 3d files they wouldn’t mind sharing?
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I’m going to rework my font sliders geometry and work on a new rear chassis slider. Once I’m happy with them I’ll gladly share. Stay tuned.
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Thanks @KeslerDesignWorks
I’ve started a collection on Thingiverse. Perhaps I can add yours after you are done. Thanks.
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I love my SLA printer. My FDM may have bigger build platform, but the SLA comes out nice. I need to work on some skids one of these days soon. Tired of tearing up my frame.
Clayton, what resin are you using? I’ve had good luck with Siraya Fast 80% and Blu 20%, seems to take a lot of brittle out.
OK I was literally thinking about these items I posted last year while in COVID quarantine today… and then the topic got bumped 
Here is my fuel pump raiser copycat design for LO206. I did print in PLA+, it actually hold together whole summer, but the bottom where contact the plate got melt at the end of summer. If you print in PLA, you need to check the bolt quite often.
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I currently use Phrozen “ABS like” resin. Really great stuff, but clean up and long cure time kinda suck. Has great mechanical properties and I use it for all sorts of odds and ends. Made some parts for overlanding that live in the engine bay of my Raptor and so far so good. I’ll give mixing in the Blu on my next run of skids a try.
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I’ll have to try the Phrozen. I have a buddy that swears by it. Half the fun is finding the right settings. 