I admire your willingness to even try the controller + pedals…not something I would ever do, lol. Watching your video makes me wonder if there’s some difference between the XBox and PS4 controllers (I use a PS4 controller), as yours looks way more difficult to drive than mine. I start with the XBox 360 Wired preset, steering profile rotation at 180, deadzone at 20%, and steering assist on. Who knows, maybe I’m just used to it.
Either way, ran for about 10 minutes this morning and was able to get down to 40.0. I know the 39’s are in sight if I can piece together a perfect lap!
I bet there isn’t. I did not turn on the steer assist intentionally so it’s possible I was weeble-wobbling because of that. That being said, over time, I got better with the stick. I think if I were to spend 6 months doing nothing but controller, I’d get used to it.
It’s different though. It’s less physical, for one. I found myself being very still with my hands quietly in my lap making careful inputs. I ran zero dead zone, for example. With my wheel, I’m leaning all over the place and making “zoom zoom” noises, having a ball. With the controller it’s a bit more thoughtful and less intuitive (since am noob).
When I hooked back up the base, I was faster, of course. But the exercise of driving the controller helped me with the track. I found myself landing some sectors that were as fast as global top times, so that’s a good sign.
Congrats on 40.0. I can’t remember what I got to here. I am not sure if I got sub 40 or wether I was in bubble like you are currently. Let’s assume not and see who gets there first. I bet you will but I could get lucky.
Aha! What program did you use? I find that setting a 2.5 minute reverse record is useful. When you run a good lap, you save afterwards and it saves the last x minutes. Less constant recording.
Ok you know how you hit Alt+z to bring up the nvidia recording suite. The option on the left of the three allows you to have the game passively record from 30s to 10mins constantly. When you press Alt+f10 it captures the last X time you specified in settings. You have to turn it on though, off by default.
So, you only record what you want to save. That being said, you have to remember to press the record button afterwards. The stream option is really easy too, once you figure it out.
If you have the situation where nvidia shadow play record buttons get greyed out, it’s a bug. Resolve this by going to: 2020 fix: goto services and restart NVIDIA LocalSystem Container
Win key then services in search. Scroll down to n.
Man you hit limiter halfway… I’m running 10-68 because I just guessed. What do you suggest?
Also, our driving looks similar. We both flop around making mistakes and get sharper. Then we land something. I think I finished last night with .3x optimal so we are about 2/10 apart.
Are you getting the micro freezes every so often where the game almost disconnects 2-3 times in succession?
9/64, so three teeth more than you. I tried running taller briefly, and felt it wasn’t the right direction due to there being so many low/mid-speed corners. I bet you’d pick up 2 tenths immediately just with a gear change.
Not sure what you’re referring to with the micro freezes. Mine is usually smooth 100% of the time.
Thanks. The freezes must be a vr thing. It stutters and spoils a lap every so often. I thought I saw it once in your footage. You drive along and all of a sudden, for a split sec, the game freezes your angle and throttle cuts out. It comes right back but you are x feet further down track and pedals have to be re-pressed.
Thanks for the gearing. I will try that after biz hours!
@Muskabeatz Your new gearing is indeed quicker! I also messed about with my tuning. I’m trying to make the kart more spinny. Anyways, we are off to the races!
Just sampled the Geel track in a “generic” X30, & using the controller + a few setting tweaks, I managed a best ~37.3x sec lap. No way could I hit the 35.xx sec record. Somebody has it dialed. My desire for a Fanatec wheel intensifies.
Anyone know if/what other chassis mfgrs will be added to the existing market?
Spencer, not following. Are you asking about sim?
In kartkraft you go to the store and buy the karts the first time. There’s no actual currency so ignore that part. Once they are in your collection, when you start a session it gives you the option to choose which of the chassis you own.
There’s Praga, CRG, Formula K, Deadly, Sodi and a couple others maybe.
They have KZ and X30. LO206 and Ka100 coming with final update from what I understand.
And yes the chassis are different. At the foundry level. So the chassis that are IPK? are all the same and the OTK brands are the same.
Also, fanatec wheels are kinda expensive and there’s less onerous ways of getting started with wheel/pedal. Logitech g29 for example. Yes the fanatec is another level but the Logitech is actually good and many folks enjoy the less expensive stuff just fine. I used a modest base for 5 years and was quite happy. If you need help figuring out what you need, feel free to ask.
I’m simply referring to the range of chassis makes offered in the game. Are more brands going to be added to the range, or is this pretty much it?
As far as sim wheels, I have no idea what I’d be interested in, though Fanatec does offer some nice replica wheels for serious $$$. I haven’t even started looking into it seriously. A game controller isn’t the most optimal, but it is functional.
So I imagine eventually yes more brands. Right now they have brands from 3 foundries so basically 3 different karts although there are more than 3 brands.
The definites are ka100 and lo206 engines being added at mp release.
I don’t know if they have licensing challenges with some stuff. Ie no tony kart in game.
Boom.
Heck Yes! It only took me 3 days to get sub 40. I am getting better at this! @Muskabeatz Come humble us wheel users with your controller again! Also, what do you think of #1 S2 and S3? Is that legit?
Ran some laps on KK this morning and had things going in the right direction, but couldn’t piece it all together. Ran a 40.0 with an absolutely terrible S1 (+.2 vs. best), rattled off a 19.6xx S2, which I’m not sure I’ll ever be able to replicate, and got my theoretical down to 39.7xx. I’m sure I can do a 39.9, and probably a 39.8, I just find myself running out of patience faster for whatever reason.
It sounds like you might be having the same thing I am, which is good/great pace in s1 and s3 but pushing too hard into the beginning of the final bit of s2.
Looking at the leaderboards the .5-.6x s2 is what we need to be running. I ran one yesterday. Stay narrow on the double apex. I think that is where we lose time. I personally am pushing too hard into this. I’m flat on throttle in the fast left and holding it, dumping myself into hard braking before I have to go right and right again.
But this is stupid. In my outlap, where I’m chill, it’s totally different. Less hurried, less wide of first apex. It falls together and the angle holds more or less all the way to start/finish straight. This is where we will find the .4-.6.
Here’s a .6x S2. This is me trying to understand how to take this narrower, shorter, faster. It’s ugly but getting fast(er).
Re: getting sick of the track. I made good progress this time around and got to sub 40 in 3 days, so I am not experiencing the agony yet. Also, I know that if I can get S2 figured out, I go to 3rd global. I can run S1 .7x and S3 .3x. Stick a .6x S2 in there and we are cooking with gas. Its gonna get hard and annoying, though!
Here’s my current fastest lap with a .8x S2 but super fast S3 and very fast S1.