The first thing to look at is whether the base angle of rotation is set the same as the Game.
On wheel, hit wrench button. S_1 should appear on your wheel.
Click right and first is SEN
This is the angle of rotation. In KK I have it set to 180. You can try AUTO and see if that plays nice with the game. Otherwise, try changing this if it looks like your inputs don’t correspond to wheel rotation on screen. Try 360, 540 etc.
2nd Click is FF force feedback. I typically leave this at 100.
3rd is SHO which controls vibration in supported wheels (ignore or leave default unless have supported wheel)
4 is ABS (self-explanatory, i do not use, but I kart)
5 is DRI or Drift mode. If you are a drifter, setting this to values that are positive makes the wheel spin more and more freely. My go to setting is -3 (not a drifter)
6 is BRF (no clue)
SPR (I leave default or 0)
DPR (damper, control from in game if necessary, set to 0)
FEI which i leave default, not knowing what it does
There is a control to adjust deadzone in the game. Check this is at zero:
Thanks Dom. It’s for Kart Kraft. I guess dead spot is a bad description. It reacts to inputs fine, but the force feedback isn’t linear at all. Once you get up to speed it feels like the FF is trying to yank the kart from side to side on the track. I had it happen to me in iRacing but I found some settings online that cured it (for the most part). I just don’t know how to fix it in KK.
I’ll take a look at everything when I get home tonight. It’s such a weird experience. It’s like someone is trying to yank the wheel out of your hands even when going straight. Then in the corners it’s just a guessing game of where the kart will go.
That’s oscillation around the center. Something that I used to get uncontrollably in forza. Damper is your friend here. I do not have this issue at all in KK. Lets try to duplicate my settings.
S1
SEN: 180
FF: 100
SHo: 100
ABS: Off
DRI: -3 (DRI controls whether the wheel returns to center hard and fast or whether it will spin like a greased bearing. Negative values are more centering strength, positive values reduce resistance. This may be part of your issue!)
For: 100
Spr: OFF
dPr: OFF (adding damper mutes the forces. I think it basically clips them, not sure. Anyways, this would help with the oscillations but start with DRI)
FEI: 100
First off, apologies for no sound. I realize KZ without sound is like life without love, but it happens from time to time.
Geel is interesting. I have not, until yesterday, attempted to go fast here. it’s a fabulous track that combines speed and flow. The final exit is really pleasant in KZ. It must be felt to be described, but, it’s fast and you feel big load as you try to get all of the turn without pushing wide. The way my rig is set up, with the shakers, you can feel the chassis flex and spring and the tires scrabble. It’s quite a ride.
I put in all of your settings and it helped but the problem is still there. Turning FF to 50 helped bandaid it but you can still feel it and the steering is just super numb.
I’m thinking that my computer just isn’t enough to power it. I also noticed things looked a bit jumpy so I turned down all of the quality. It helped some too but it’s still not good. This game might be asking more than my laptop can handle.
lower all setting to low.
FFB no more than 50%
Set DRI to +5. The wheel will have no centering force, it should spin freely. Can you drive in a straight line? Can you turn? Mess around reducing it.
Also, the damper, or DPR in S_1. This should kill oscillations. Add it in on the base. It goes from 0 to 120. Try adding 20% or more. Does that stop it?
There’s also the FILTERING option in the FFB tab of the INPUTS category in SETTINGS, in KartKraft. (Picture in recent post of settings) Adding this will clip forces. If the above doesn’t help, try this.
I seem to be getting better at this. I am a lot more confident in my abilities and am getting to the fast times, faster. I no longer am relying on my inner “Stig” to land a good lap while I am distracted. I can take control of the process, be totally present, and not screw up (much).
This time around, I did not have to run endless laps to get into the top 5, I did it in a couple days. This is progress!
I am trying to keep the more powerful KZ in the grip. I am being careful to not let the kart overpower, even a little, the turn. You lose time in pretty subtle ways.
The kart wants to step out, and acceleration is not always foot flat to the floor. Look at the ghost of the guy I am racing. You can see what I mean about stepping out in the penultimate turn. He goes a bit wide, asking too much. And thus, I win.
The second turn in this lap is a pretty good example of trying to keep the kart efficient. I am braking a bit earlier and trying to accelerate through the turn. The early, light brake allows you to carry more speed through the turn without pushing wide.
I spent some time last night thinking about the priority of the corners on the track, and how we generally feel compelled to push into the wrong ones. I suspect that’s indicative of a good design. I took a step back and looked at the first complex that matters, which begins with turn 4ish.
You enter this complex from the mini-straight that comes after the fast, right sweeper. You want to dive in as hard as possible, but why? You then need to make a right and then a left into the part that really matters, which is the final turn. Everything sets up, essentially, from back here. So, get it right.
In this lap, I let the rubber dictate how hard I pushed. There’s a sort of interlock between the tire/chassis and the track that you can feel in sim (and irl) when you are within this “rubber surfing” window. In it, the kart is on it’s toes, turning freely. Acceleration is fluid, there’s no power wasted as the driving is efficient. Braking is powerful, as the tires are locked into the underlying rubber. If you don’t break that interlock by braking too hard, the kart turns freely while simultaneously being highly loaded.
I used to call this the power line in KK, and I’d accidentally find pieces of it, as I figured out the turns. I’ve always been chasing a lap that was 100% in the power line, never falling off it. This one, I think, accomplished that, and it is fast. The last few tenths to Sheenu will be found here, in the width of the power line, in the rubber.
