Learning how to diagnose tires

When we had tires look like that it helped to move the seat forward.
Start by moving it about 2 cm if you are at neutral caster.
If you already are on negative caster you might have to move the seat more than 2 cm.
The goal is to have a neutral kart under normal conditions (fresh tires) with baseline setup.
A quick fix might be a softer axle.

@JR_Garcia TAG 125 in Australia, 175kg [385lbs] for Rotax and 169kg [372lbs] for X30. Rotax in my case for this particular race.

@KartingIsLife The rears are great, looked after them for 60 laps over the weekend and wear was even and not excessive after the final.

@tjkoyen The kart did have an understeer issue all weekend, I tried to combat it with increasing the toe out, trying the front bar in (in a KR!!!), it was slightly better however still had to work the front hard to get it turned in. FYI, Cold pressure was 12.6psi in the front, coming in at 15.5 hot.

@hzzon You may have just given me a solution - I moved my seat back around 2cm for this weekend to combat rear sliding which fixed the problem but may have consequently caused understeer. I also had quite a lot of weight on the rear of my seat. I may try move my seat a fraction more forward for the next round.

2 cm !?That’s a bunch! Your first clue was; lose then tight. Suggestion; put the kart on the scales and make that move, see what it does to the balance.

It´s hard to move it less than 2cm since you need to drill new holes.

If it feels better for you I can recommend 1,5cm😆

Im not a tuner but I believe seat movements forwards are back are usually measured in MM as opposed to CM. 2 cm seems like it would be a big change, maybe.

Everyone relax. If the kart has understeer, you have a million adjustments to fix it, before moving the seat.

The first and most simple adjustment would be to widen the front. A seat adjustment would be the last thing I would try as it alters the overall balance of the kart and changes every variable at once.

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Hoosiers are crap…that’s the issue here. :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye:

Do any of you check temps?

But, but… he moved the seat 2cm!

I know you’re kidding but let’s not disparage a company\product even if it’s in jest :open_mouth:

I was trying to be funny but I’m not actually kidding. I’ve been around enough of their car tires and raced 14 races on their kart tires last year to where I can make a qualified stance that they aren’t a great tire in my opinion.

They come up to temp quick, they race well initially, but they are only good for a few heat cycles, they don’t age well and they don’t handle heat and over-driving well at all. They will chunk on agressive surfaces and the rep will tell you it’s your fault for kart setup (when you are winning races and championships) vs the tires fault.

This season im changing to lecont whites so should I post in here or make my own with pictures of the tires? (if I have questions about tires)

Well that’s at least a somewhat constructive criticism, which is fair. Definitely more insightful.

The first Hoosier sets I tried in 2009 needed work, but come 2011 and afterwards I found them to be as good as any. Mostly road racing 125 shifter application. Found that the R60A would perform the same as MG yellow, however the yellows would chunk up in high temps. Grattan especially. Heat cycling seemed to be OK, I remember putting it on pole with a set nearly on the cords.

Yes I moved the seat back 2cm, however it was incorrectly fitted in the first place by the previous owner of the kart.

The seat is now 12cm from the axle, noting that 12.5cm is actually a factory recommended setting for KR on LeCont

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Ah ok. That makes a great deal more sense. That would have been a big move. :grinning:

Andy, My experience with the Hoosiers (60B) seems to be the opposite of yours. Different track surface might the reason for such a marked difference with the same tire.

We use the Hoosier 60B tire for Tag100cc in So Cal and I have found it to be a very very good tire but I don’t have any experience about the suitability for anything other than 100cc.

The tire is very consistent throughout the day, hardly any loss or zero lap time drop between qualifying and the main. There are some of us that think the tire might be good for 2 race days. Interestlngly, the Hoosier seems more difficult to bring up to temp here at our track.

Another side benefit when compared with another brand is they are easy to change by hand.

Gonna be running the hard Hoosiers this year.will pipe up after ive had some laps on em.

Your quote saying “There are some of us that think the tire might be good for 2 race days.“ would lead me to believe that the standard at your track is to use one set per race day, is that correct?

Yes, either new or scrubbed in for qualifying.