Hi! I have seen people using lipo batterys in x30? I have some lipos over after my rc career… will this work? Its 14.8v 74Wh 5000mah 60c
Asked the same today to a guy at the track with X30 like mine. It was a 14,8V RC battery (haven’t seen the amps) and he said me that it’s working perfectly, while I was a bit sceptic about different voltage. Depending on the regulations, you may not race with it.
Well i have seen people race with it in sweden…
Did some search… i would need to get my 11.1v lipo. When charged its 12.8 so its about the same as my current battery. A 14.8 would be around 16.5v fully charged… soo thats ti much for my mychron and starter
5000mah is good. What i like with lipo is that it keeps same output of electricity through out the charge. A acid battery when pressing start button it goes down to 8v and when releasing button back to 12.9 or 13v. Wich is bad for starter… a electric motor works best when having same input not variyinf… i will try this and let you guys know
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Can confirm the 4 cell lipo 14.8v are fine on the KA100 and X30 have run them many times before.
Problem is that i have a mychron… i dont want to test if it can handle around 16.7v
You’re replacing a lead-acid battery with an operating voltage of 12.6v.
LiPo is a bad choice for two reasons:
- They can self-ignite readily
- The cell voltage matches up badly. Nominal LiPo voltage is 3.7V. So you’re either stuck with a 3S battery cranking out 11.1V or a 4S battery cranking out 14.8V (and peaking at nearly 17V!).
LiFePO4 is a better choice, as they don’t burn as easily, and the nominal cell voltage of 3.25V gets you to a nice even 13V for a 4S battery. I like the Zippy 4200mAh battery pack for a TaG kart - it’s a set-it-and-forget-it solution all weekend and it’s only 600g.
If you’ve got lead on the kart, I’d advise going the exact opposite way for a battery - get a lead-acid with plenty of capacity! You can certainly install a big absorbent-glass-mat battery from a 1000+cc sportbike on a kart, and then you don’t have to worry about running it down.
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But lead acid id so unreliable… dont hold power as long… when starting power goes up and down. I had a starter brake beacuse of the difference in voltagw… me and my dad checked and all the little platess has 0.03 ohm and 2 of the plates had 1.28ohm. Thats causee by a öead battery
Yeah, that’s because your battery is some lead plates rattling away in a bucket of acid. Try lead and lead oxide plates clamped together around acid-soaked fiberglass mat.
The battery shown is the exact battery I use on X30. It’s perfect. You’ll need to get good at soldering XT60 and XT90 connectors; I like my 50W iron. I use a Turnigy charger, also sold on that site.
Soldering is my strong part!. Before karting i had a keyboard building biz around 120 solder per pcb. And in school i built an electric motor
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im thinking of doing an adapter… so its not permanent, solder theese 2 male conectors to 4mm wire and solder the battery hone connector to it
Yes, that’s a good way to do this. I’d make sure the wire gauge is big enough for the current!
I’ve been using an LiFePO4 Antigravity battery to run Mychron and AIM SmartyCam - I suspect it would do great as a starter battery as well. 6Ah and 120 crankers for 15.2oz weight.
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My mychron is connected to my wireing harness so when i plug in the starter battery mychrin also gets power
Was it flooded lead acid or AGM. Really an AGM should be fine, nothing is 100% reliable, but of the lead acid types, AGM is going to be the most suitable type for the environment of a kart.
This:
I saw official unipro battery was 3s 11.1v 2200 mah… So im guessing it should work fine?
I purchased one of these, hope to try it in the spring
Everyone I know uses Dewalt 20v batteries on the KA100. They also use them to run lights for night races.