So do you think this will work?
What about one of these?
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It looks to be the right ampacity and voltage. Can’t tell whether it’s a good battery or a giant internal spark waiting to happen though!
Lol, that I will find out soon enough. I saw that you said that lifo are safter than a lipo battery? I was trying to keep the weight on the kart down as much as possible.
The big issue with a lot of those batteries on Amazon are that they’re built to be long term backup power for emergency lighting. They’re not rated to have the cold cranking amps you’ll need to run the starter. I opted to go for an Antigravity AT7B-BS. They’re super light, have good CCA, almost identical size (slightly snug in a factory KA box), and have a restart function that saves the battery if it gets too low. They’re definitely pricier than the other ones posted, but well worth it.
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Ran into a funny thing… you know the regular old 9v batteries you buy for consumer electronics?
They aren’t all the same. Nick bought a flappy arm guy toy and the box was very specific about which brands worked best and which didn’t.
Indeed, the oomph type varies. The Duracell 9v did not produce the juice to make it flap vigorously, but the Amazon basics one does.
I had assumed they were all the same since they are all the same from a consumer perspective.
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I would advise against any type of lipo battery on a kart. TJ may remember - in 2019 i had one explode and catch fire during the USPKS final at Go pro while on track. I had to jump out of my kart going 20-30mph as it melted the brake line.
i have pictures - it was like a fighter jet at an airshow with the smoke trail for a lap
well, I for one, would love to see the pics. Sorry about the misfortune, however.
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Tkart had an article a couple of days ago about batteries and a lipo option.
An online kart shop is also selling lipo for karts.
I put so much money on batteries and starters etc. If you think about it its the most important even comes before the engine itself. If you cant start it on race day and have trouble your screwd. Happebd to me so many times. That awfull feeling when you watch everyone else take of from the pots and. You just stand there in p1 regreting all your lifr decitions
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Me in pits, panicking when my x30 wouldn’t turn over… yeah I see your point
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I am suprised x30 people not running Dewalt 20v batteries. Thats all the KA100 people run locally, I also used them on my 420cc kart.
i have my mychron connected to the battery. had some problems when i had the mychron battery turned off sometimes mid race. Leaves me blind. its kinda only info i get to tune carburator on straights. It acually does alot maby 0.20 per long
straight
I would think even with a stepdown in line a Dewalt battery would be easier and weight + or - the same as an aftermarket LIPO
For $69 I get something that fits in the tray, fits the harness, has 10 Ah rating, and only weighs 2lbs.
I don’t understand the need to make it complicated with a Dewalt pack that uses the same chemistry, is going to weigh almost the same, cost more, and have lower Ah rating?
Have you used the Dakota yet? On paper it seems like it doesn’t have enough amps to run the starter properly.
Compared to the Antigravity I posted having 180 cranking amps.
It may be of interest that my lunatic son is trying to figure out melting a wrench using small batteries in series.
It’s not difficult to do, but the science behind it interests him and the points of failure appear to be challenging (ie failure in batteries before wrench melts, things other than wrench melting first etc). The plan is to try to identify/predict a bunch of stuff beforehand and be all science-y about it.
He doesn’t plan on having the wrench turn to plasma but that’s also a possibility with help from a fellow lunatic at the University who is a colleague of my dad. They have big toys there.
I am somewhat alarmed but I also am comforted by the idea that he’s on the theory part and that if it makes it to actual experimental, surface of the sun type stuff, it will be in a controlled environment with pro supervision.
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As someone that has dropped a wrench down an engine bay that perfectly landed touching the frame rail and positive terminal on the starter; it’s pretty spectacular. It extruded the battery terminals out ~2” and turned the wrench a really cool green/purple/gold color.
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We have used the Dakota. Seems to work ok despite not being a true cranking battery. We may be shortening the battery life pulling amps for starting, but to early to make that call. I decided to give it a go based on some other battery experience from RC racing and our bass boat batteries. The Dakota 25Ah model of similar/same construction offers 300 CCA. If you ratio that out to the 10Ah unit that is 120 CCA capacity. Of course, there are several internal considerations that I don’t know when making that guesstimate.
The antigravity batteries look nice and have published specs in line with the standard SLA models. Definitely would work. Overall not a fan of the extra exposed lugs and lug style. I don’t want anything exposed like that if I have tools in my hand. Will still be giving them a look if we kill the Dakota.
Here’s the thing, what do you really think that the IAME starting motor is drawing? I honestly didn’t know and couldn’t find it. So decided to try and see what happens. 