I need to get my LO206 rebuilt. I know all the engine builders are great I’m just looking for one who can give me some tuning tips for the track I run at with OVKA, G&J Kartway in Camden, Ohio. I would like to send it out next week and have it back around May 18th.
Ghost Racing Engines / NewGen Motorsport
812-565-2209
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Ghost, Boganator, Lawson all familiar with G&J and have multiple engines running every OVKA event. You racing OVKA? What class?
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Any of the guys mentioned are great. If you call Ghost and talk to them, I will gladly pick it up from you this weekend and deliver it to them for you. Save on shipping/meeting.
Find me on the grid. Black and Pink kart with the ghost logos on it. #13
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Yeah I’m in 206 senior
Nice that would be awesome. What class are you in?
I ran the first race last weekend and I’m about 1.5 seconds off the leaders. I have had a decent amount of track experience throughout my life, I really think I should be quicker (raced karts in the early 2000s, basically grew up at G&J, as well as autocross and track days in karts and cars). My engine is used and I know nothing of it’s history, I feel like everyone is just pulling me down the straights.
I’ve tried just about every chassis adjustment possible and I’m not gaining enough time even if the kart feels better in the corners. I was as fast as 45.3 on the 1b configuration with the kart at the base recommended setup, but with pump gas. When I went out for warm ups with our spec non ethanol fuel the engine felt even slower, felt dead off the corners, and could only muster a 46.0 for the day. Going to check for intake gasket leak.
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I don’t think i would be looking to engine builder for a 1.5 unless the motor is old and tired. What is your clutch configuration. Got any data?
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That’s the thing, I think the engine is old and tired but I have no data to verify anything, using an old Mychron 3. Theres a date written on the head from 2019, it came with the kart used and the history of it is unknown. I really should do a compression and leak down test but I’d rather just send it out to eliminate any concerns considering rebuilds are inexpensive. From everything I’ve read this thing has to be due for a valve job. I’m using an Inferno Flame, 2 white and 2 black springs with no weights, shoes are leading.
You might be able to glean enough clues just from the RPM trace. Compare min and max RPM (On straights where the limiter is not reached) to others (Assuming same gearing) to see if your driving and chassis is working well.
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1.5 seconds at G&J is most likely not the engine unless someone went out of their way to set everything wrong in the carb and valve train.
Being pulled down the straight is typically lack of exit speed.
A fresh engine certainly never hurts, tho!
I actually just tested an older motor vs. newer motor, different builders for each, at G&J, went home and checked my data, it’s basically the exact same. Only time I’ve ever seen people really get big swings in speed is when they put on new Hoosiers, make substantial chassis changes/adjustments, or hop in a totally different kart. Getting better with the line and improving exit speed helps, too, but you make up that 1.5 a little more gradual, it seems.
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Edited for content and legnth:
Recently back to backed an old whooped motor to a freshly prepped one and was amazed at the difference. I went seconds faster on a long fast track. I didn’t expect the gains, but had I had no frame of refference as to how bad my motor was, being new to 206 and not having raced in many years. The kart even drove better. It’s nice to at least know I’m closer to where I need to be while I work on the rest.
New Castle is NOT G&J and you can’t make that comparison.
A 3 second gain at NCMP is gonna be equivalent to a .3 gain at G&J.
Added:
I should mention that I had an engine two years ago that won at Whitleand one day and was 2.5 seconds slow before I swapped at New Castle the next day, then that slow engine was out front at Whiteland the next race without touching it.
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I get that. It was also probably one of the fastest layouts NCMP can do. I think my point still stands that power can’t be discounted, but on a different scale, as you pointed out for me.
Added also:
Or not, I dunno. I was pretty happy. I’ll go back to my hole now.
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Chris, which class you running at NCMP? Unless it’s raining, I’ll be there Sunday running 206 Masters.
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Did you ask around on gearing? I’ve run Masters there, so a little heavier, but got upper mid pack times (mid 45’s) on 16/62.
I’ve asked around on gearing and nobody has a straight answer. I tried every gear possible, being on the limiter for 2 seconds at the end of the longest straight or barely hitting the limiter at all. I was faster on the gearing where I touched the limiter the least.
Added:
I welcome anyone who might be at G&J to drive my kart and see if I’m wrong, I would be estatic to just have an answer even if it is the driver.
I actually borrowed my brothers aim solo and got some data at the track yesterday, but I don’t have anything to compare it to.
3rd place was on a 19/70 or 19/71 in Senior. I was on a 19/73 in Masters but also didnt have a great kart last weekend (I run to wide when it gets cold) and pressures were too high for sure trying to compensate for lack of tire temp
You can Borrow my Mycron 5 and I will steal other seniors data so we can compare.