I’ve downloaded ROK’s pdf and read it top to bottom. Nothing on engine operating parameters (such as torque over the RPM curve), nothing on setting up the throttle linkage to prevent damage and to center the butterfly, nothing on tuning the engine, etc.
While there are sites on line that talk about these things in bits and pieces, I can find nothing from ROK – other than recommendations such as taking off the cylinder head after every race! Is there something I’m missing from ROK, or do I piece together what I actually need to do by going on line and by trial and error?
Dyno curves can be hard to come by as there are so many variables, but I think a curve with just RPM on the graph would help somewhat, without starting a war of arms on claimed HP/Torque figures.
James – I tried to ID my engine in the forum’s heading but I didn’t check it after I posted. I have a new ROK VLR 100. The pdf manual has engine dimensions and lots of pages on how to put it together out of the box. The ROK website has several videos on their engines in general and 2 on how to disassemble and reassemble the VLR 100. But nothing on how to “operate” it.
OK I see the topic name change for VLR. I’ll post what I found below… I suspect it’s what you have already read yourself, but if nothing else it’s a starting point for others for now…
Looking at the owner’s guide, I can see what you mean. It does have some good info in there. I like that it shows how to do popoff because that’s crucial…
But it doesnt show how to start the engine up for example. I guess that’s assumed knowledge but I agree it would be valuable info to have…
Fired up my new VLR 100 yesterday for the first time. The completely useless manual gave no information, I mean 0, about the red OFF button and its correct position when starting the engine. So, after insuring that the fuel line was filled right up to the carb, I just cranked and cranked with no hint of firing.
Took out the plug and, after grounding it, cranked again to check for any spark. Nothing. So I went through all the connections, and found, as expected, that Ron White’s shop had done an excellent job. Finally called the importer and he told me about the nearly invisible height difference of the red button when operational and when, effectively, disconnected.
Popped it up and it fired right away. If the importer had not known to tell me about the button, I would not have noticed the 2 positions in 100 years. I cannot believe OTK’s manual is so bad. Incidentally, the manual refers to head bolt torques of 1.6 NM and 16 NM. The home office did a courteous follow up to my call and confirmed that it should be 16, not 1.6. Just in case anyone should read the manual…