I think I need one of these:
This one is OK thou:
Yeah, um I think you should probably plan on doing the bottom end. Because you know what will happen if it comes apart.
On the bodywork, I look at it as having varying levels of “escapeability”. CIK being probably easiest, followed by unenclosed enduro and then enclosed types.
I’ve my hands inside a few of these KV92’s… let me know if I can help.
Will do! Thanks!
It will be OK, young padawan.
Challenge round: I’ll be putting my town home for sale soon, hopefully buying a place with an actual 2 or 2 1/2 car garage which (much to my wife’s chagrin) will be turned into a full shop. Well, at least half of it.
In the meantime, last weekend’s task was to do some serious work, put as many pieces that are out of the frame into the frame, and get the kart into roller condition so it can be stored in my in-law’s garage.
To-do list for Saturday.
Italian Motors does customer service right: Not only they had the small bearings in stock, but they also shipped them over night so I could have them by the weekend, at a reduced price. And threw in a couple of kick ass Tm Racing stickers.
Combustion chamber “hat” was full of goop. The orange areas with thick goop accumulation are just areas that needed no goop at all, and it just dried like that. It took me several hours to get all the stuff removed.
And it didn’t turn out that great. Just adequate.
New piston, rings, bearings, and spring clips installed. Base gasket was in excellent condition, so it was cleaned up and re-installed.
Cylinder was cleaned with phosphoric acid cleaner. Installed, shiny piston alert!
If you gotta do the goop, do little goop. Pencil it in or smear it carefully with your (gloved) finger.
Fully goop’ed. Areas that don’t need the goop didn’t get the goop.
BAM. Check out those stainless socket cap bolts. No more rust in my engine water, darn it.
In the mean time, the steering wheel hub bolts and the head cover bolts are skinny dipping in rust remover.
Can you recover a rubber gasket that has no tears nor dry spots? Yes you can! A topic for a separate thread, perhaps.
Like new. NEXT.
With the de-rusted stainless bolts, engine head cover goes on. That’s a job well done!
If I want this thing to roll, it will need front hubs. The front hub bearings were crusty, may need replacement… Except they didn’t. A soak in penetrating lube over a few hours and a couple of solvent flushes made them roll like new. Impressive! Hubs are in.
DRIVEN steering wheel was installed. Looks absolutely crazy. Clutch and shifter were installed. Enjoy my office view.
Found spacers for the engine mount in my local hardware store. So engine goes in! Still need to play with the sprocket alignment and with the engine mount brace (that ties to the rear cross member.) But it appears that an outside sprocket arrangement will work just fine.
All wheels and tires are now bolted in, everything rolls smoothly.
Stefan (the previous owner) was also kind enough to send me the seat mounts. Meaning I can start playing with seat alignment too.
I’ve managed to partially install the seat for a mock up. It is very comfortable, but the lower seat mounts need work, and I have difficulties reaching the brake pedal area since I have to rest my left leg directly on top of the fuel tank. I wonder if I am better off relocating the brakes to the left (used to be clutch) pedal? Although once the master cylinder is hooked up it might become a non-issue.
Exhaust route was also figured out. I’m pretty happy with how it looks from the back.
Still some things to do before it is road-worthy:
Figure out coolant routing. Right now the top coolant line port on the radiator would be rubbing against my right leg and there is no way to align my seat and avoid this. I will have to move that port. Which brings me to…
Should I just take the opportunity to install all AN coolant fittings and braided radiator hoses? I’m thinking… Probably.
Figure out the lower seat mount. Lower right mount is right against the seat, all other mounts align perfectly. But lower left mount has a huge gap of about 5-7". Not acceptable, if I need to use this large of a spacer I’ll rather fabricate something out of metal with some rubber cushion.
Steering wheel quick-release is stuck. This is a safety issue that must be fixed.
I’ve found a 30mm water pump pulley in the UK, it is now sitting in my DHL Borderlinx account for the last 2 weeks. I need to get it shipped here before I move.
Need water pump.
Need to find a spot to place the e-box at.
There is some body work that still needs to be done.
Need to rebuild the fuel pump.
Shifter linkages need to be finished up.
You won’t have any major updates from me until the move is done. So I’ll leave ya’ll with a good question: Should I invest in a set of leathers or go with a traditional sprint kart suit?
Good to see someone bringing an old kart out of retirement and back onto the track. I raced a laydown with a TM 125 gearbox on it for many years in the f125 class. Now I have superkart that I will be running in unlimited. At CES you would run in unlimited but at WKA or AKRA event you could run in F125 or still in unlimited. Actually at those events you could run both and do 4 races in a weekend.
Going back a little bit to discussion on body work and covering your legs. Noah is right that WKA rule book says you can’t have them covered. But I have seen superkarts that ran in superkart or unlimited class run bodywork that covered their legs at WKA events. But WKA might make you take off the fairing. I think CES and AKRA would most likely let you run without any problems and those seem like the closer events to you.
There aren’t many unlimited style karts that run at most CES events but at grattan there should be a few. I know myself, buddy and dad will be there in ours this year. If kart is ready in may MIS always has a good turn out as well.
As for suit many used to run leathers but almost everyone runs normal kart suit in unlimited now.
Look forward to seeing the kart on track.
We picked up 3 used Anderson superkarts. So we are going through those to get them ready for MIS in May. We are working on some custom molded seats currently and might start some of our own bodywody work design after that.
Thank you, Jeremy!
Luckily this is a good one, I don’t think this puppy will require too much work to become road worthy. You are right in that CES will probably be my main stomping grounds (I <3 Blackhawk Farms), but I have family in Clarkston MI (too bad they don’t run at Waterford Hills…) which I visit often, I’ve been to MIS before so that and Grattan are always an option.
Kart debut plans are to hit the local sprint track (CHMS) to shake things off. Perhaps the local Autocross circuit too. I don’t think I am quite ready for 130+ MPH yet.
Let me know when your first few races of the season will be and I’ll pay you a track visit.
None of them from Johnny West? I know he has two Anderson rollers for sale, with bodywork.
I talked to Johnny and he actually had even a few more for sale. We got two karts from the Johnson’s that were getting out of karting and were selling off 5 superkarts for great prices. Those were not built by Johnny but he helped them out and they were in very good condition. The other we got from Jon Anderson and it was a kart that was built up for shifter kart mag as a project 250. It’s been sitting for awhile but has many upgraded parts on it.
We are planning on racing them at:
So if you make any of those races come check them out. Our team name is Driver Excuses and should have logos on the karts and trailers.
Post some pictures! This forum is lacking in superkart content.
I’ll try to make it to the MIS event in May, I’ll let you know here if I can stop by!
Operation “Make Superkart into a roller so it can be stored at my In Law’s garage taking over 50% of their garage space with all of my garage crap” was a great success!
Swift Super kind of looks cozy in there.
Broke into my in-law’s garage for a moment of intense imaginary brap
On other news, got the steering wheel off.
Back to house searching, she needs a fancy new home.
Noah, I am re-visiting this.
I was unable to reach Dave Larson to confirm CES will let me race with the full nassau attachment covering my legs. That in turn prompted me to try a few “fire drill” extractions now that the steering wheel issue is resolved and I can detach it on command.
It was a bit tricky to get in and out off, my feet hit the panel attachment and I could see myself getting stuck. So, it is coming out and a more traditional Nassau is getting bolted in.
Dave’s usually easier to reach by phone, FYI. He’ll get to emails, but he might take a while.