What did you do to your kart today?

That’s so much neater than the disc cover gasket I made for my VR98 :laughing:

Hahah!

Is it that horrible to do? :rofl:

when i did some for building chassis i used from biltema the same kind of tool.

Bought a set!

Hålpipor😁

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Was doing some driving, coaching, and lead-follow today and seized the engine. :smiling_face_with_tear:

Been a while (probably 5 years) since I last stuck one. Last I can remember was an X30 bottom end.

Bummer…any idea what failed? How many hours were on it?

I’m not sure yet but it had a good amount of time on it. Was due for a rebuild before Route 66 anyway. Gotta pull it off and inspect it this weekend.

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x30 or ka100? 20 char

KA.

I think it was a bottom end seize but hard to say without tearing it down.

It’s not so much what I did, but what I had done. Found a few things off on the $1000 kart’s engine :laughing:

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That’ll do it.

I should probably fix my EGT sensor so I know what temps I’m running…

Bad but likely not catastrophic! Does the piston move at all?

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I see you’re a welder now :laughing:

Am I looking at a stuck piston through the piston port on side?

Yeah it freed up when it cooled down, I can turn the crank now. It was real stuck when I tried to re-fire to limp back to the pits.

I just wanted to tighten the tolerances a bit; it’s called “blueprinting”!

Yeah this is the piston through the exhaust port.

Dropping it off at Franklin this week for a rebuild and dyno break in before Route 66 next weekend.

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Big weekend service coming starting Saturday. Engine off for oil change and new bully clutch install. Then the rear axle comes off for new bearings and floating hub installation. Time to service the front hubs too. It will be fun.

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Got my LO206 engine back from the shop. It was leaking over 30% due to a blown head gasket! My mechanic said that he was surprised it even ran. Surprisingly, the valves were still nearly perfect. They tested the head and found the valves were only leaking something like <0.5%.

That is a relief because up until they tested it, the running theory was that I had forgotten to bring the engine to TDC coming off the track too many times and the valves warped. I’m happy that was not the case.

I am very excited what I can do next race with an engine not losing 30% of its compression!

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That’s good news. Yes a blown headgasket will sap power :laughing:

I think you’re referring to the valve springs vs valves. It’s a common myth from what I can tell. The concern being that the springs lose their tension if kept compressed. Leading to decreased sealing capability, valve float or a combination both.

Maybe that was true with some super soft setups in the past, but in the absence of any good data, I think you’re fine not setting it at TDC. By all means put it there over winter if you like, but I wouldn’t sweat it at all. It absolutely won’t damage anything if you just leave the engine where it stops.

Recently I saw a video of a Lake Speed NASCAR cup engine from around 2000 that’s been sitting up since then. They put it on the dyno then stripped it down. No change in valve spring properties in all that time laying up.

Admittedly, the metallurgy in those springs is probably different to those in a 206… but it’s something to ponder.

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I think the dirt/clone guys claim that the valves warp during cooling when not seated. Admittedly, I have not worked on a enough clone stuff to know if it actually happens. However, I have never seen it in the hundreds (did we make it to 1,000’s? I think we did…) of 206s I have torn apart.

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This is just the advice I have gotten from my mechanic and it seems like its the prevailing thought in the pits at my club races.