Oh you got a carbon one! Snap!
Unfortunately not carbon - it’s been dipped and just looks like carbon.
Working on mychron last night and it is super easy just 8 screws to open it.
Gunk on the screen came from inside mychron
Cleaned up screen (had to use a adhessive cleaner thats safe on plastic) and inside of case + hand polished.
Dielectric grease on seal does wonders for sealing/longevity of seal. *Note, in rain also use on battery O-Ring prior to running.
Came out alot improved not bad for a very old unit.
10 Likes
I need a hero lens mod cover please. Someone must make them. Can you 3D print rubbery/soft plastic or is it always the rigid kind?
I shot you a PM…….20
Took the Mini Rok off and got a 206 for my oldest this season. Focusing on smoothness and maintaining corner speed, to make him a more well-rounded racer.
6 Likes
Firing up both engines and wrap the tires . Check again if everything is allright before our big comeback . Im hopping February gonna be first trackday sessions .
5 Likes
I like the look of your shop!
Thanks david ! Its not a shop , just me and my friend on our small garage tryiing to keep things clean and alive !
Its a racing man cave ! . Smile 
1 Like
Machined my Odental Mount, due to a chassis change this was required. I think we have a work around but we need to test this first to see if it gives us what we want.
2 Likes
Tidied up the refreshed engine with some safety wire on all exhaust parts. Also designed and 3d printed out some fuel line holders/clips.
Also had a question on motor mounts. I’m currently looking for a new mount and for the 206 decided on Odenthal. Any input on the euro vs standard version? I have an OTK 30/92 and the euro seems more secure but open to input!
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I’d rather have the normal clamps that fit up inside the rail gap.
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Installed Motor Mount, The Machine work has it fitting over the side pod spud nicely.
Mocked up Engine to finalize the rear setup. Mocked up sprocket.
Went to prep-chains for the start of the season and ran into a few issues. I need to splice in 2 more links as 116 links was not quite enough not a big deal I have spare sections of new chains to do that.
However then I ran into a problem I couldn’t quickly overcome. The latest batch of 219 master-links I got were absolute junk and not even the correct pin size for 219. (Ones on the left)
We didn’t use master links. We just press out pins and add/delete links as needed.
3 Likes
Chuck, I don’t use traditional lubricants. I use Molten Speed Wax on my chain which requires removal of the chain between every 3rd event or so. This is an older test, but to be honest its not even so much about friction the wax is just way easier to deal with, it doesn’t make a mess and I never have to mess with my chain during events.
I do the same and break like normal.
That olive oil does that well in this test doesn’t fill me with confidence in the engineering behind the commercial chain lubes.
I note that RK Chain says to use GL-5 gear oil, and that’s always worked well for me. Not sticky, makes a smelly mess, definitely very good for wear, very cheap.
How does wax stand up to less frequent application?
We’ve used ELF Chain paste for the last few years in endurance racing, where races typically run 6-12hrs without stopping for lube, but this product seems unavailable eveywhere.
It’s a low-power application (GX200s), but I currently work on chain replacement at 70hrs and would like to find something else that can facilitate similar.
Call me lazy but that’s a lot of work to save .002 hp
1 Like