I am using my head, and my eyes. When I change the ride height, I physically see the axle move further back or forward in the cassette carrier. Rotating the cassette is the only way to adjust the ride height in the Kart Republic, so I’d like to know how we can adjust the ride height without also moving the wheelbase in the kart as well.
@Tm3sr - think of it this way: the travel for the cassette bolts gets gradually shorter as you move towards the front of the cassette (right to left in the case of Paul’s photo). The top left bolt is essentially a fixed position, so there is always going to be fore/aft movement of the axle when adjusting the ride height.
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Use a doorstop between the tire and the sidepod, if the rear edge of the sidepod is almost vertical. If it drops out when you raise or lower the axle the wheelbase is changing.
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Having run a KR on 3 race weekends now, here is the baseline setup that I found to be good. I would be interested to see how this compares to what others are using as a baseline.
Series: USPKS
Tires: MG Yellows
Class: X30 Masters
A couple of points:
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I settled on this baseline mostly from the input from the KR experts and the fact that it felt great at NJMP (testing) and GoPro (race weekend) with this set-up on the kart.
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I run AMV 58mm PCD wheels/hubs instead of the stock AMV KR 69mm. Why? I found no difference in lap times/feel/performance and, as the AMV importer, I have a lot more 58mm PCD wheels than 69mm wheels. My baseline wheel is the AMV 3F.
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I initially ran the kart with a lot more caster and positive camber – me no likey
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I need to test ride height more. I stayed with the standard ride height this past weekend. I played with it previously but need to try it more.
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Lead ballast - I moved some weight off the seat back and moved it to the left side of the seat. Not sure of the impact as I did this at the same time as the front-end adjustments.
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Paul, thoughts on the KR vs Compkart?
Both good. Here is what I like about each:
KR
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Very positive front end
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Easy tuning adjustments - caster, camber, rear ride height are super quick to adjust. Seconds to minutes for all adjustments
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You can easily feel the impact of the tuning adjustments
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You don’t have to buy as many tuning parts, other than axles everything is on the kart when you buy it
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Brakes are top
Compkart
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Good handling kart
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Flo Color although it is a hard to keep clean
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J3 provides awesome support
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Lots of tuning information available online
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If you overdrive (which I tend to do) the kart is pretty forgiving
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Lots of rear grip
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Brakes are very good, maybe just a tick below KR
One thing I don’t like about Compkart is that it is expensive to acquire all the go fast bits.
I’m a tag 125 racer and my chassis over the last few seasons has progressed from a 2014 Arrow X3 Vegas to a 2016 Exprit Noesis to a 2018 KR3 (yeah, the weird one) . I normally buy a second hand kart 1 to 2 years old as I’m no longer looking to win Nationals on my progression to F1 stardom. Each kart always had a rotax 125 max on it and my weight hasn’t changed much either over the years. I have found all 3 reacted nearly identical to set up changes but each have a massively different operating window. I would say the Arrow best in green tracks as it has the best brakes and steering response. The Exprit was almost set and forget until the track really rubbered up and the KR3 has been the best at dealing with excess grip on rubbered tracks.
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Anyone got any more news on KR/WPK/FA 2022 homologation?
seems all the other manufactures have released theirs and KR are holding out
Ugh. I have not heard. Just bought a 2021MY KR in July. I did not even think about the upcoming homologation. Oh well, I’m going to stick with the '21 for this year.
Only KR themselves is homologated it appears. WPK and FA look like they’ll just be rebadges. Similar to how Righetti only homologate theirs as Righetti but are sold as Gold Kart, Mac Minarelli, etc.
Same KR models KR1, KR2, and KR3 and same homologation numbers so it does not look like the chassis have changed.
2018 Homologation
2022 Homologation
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interesting guessing the chassis geometry is the same that way the homologation doesn’t change possibly (some one with more knowledge on the subject may have a better idea)
They can change it quite a lot within the homologation.
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Chassis geometry may be adjusted within the tolerances specified on the Homologation form, which I believe is usually 10mm, for the front width from steering yoke to steering yoke, rear width from frame rail to frame rail, and wheelbase.
It’s not uncommon for manufacturers to reuse homologation. OTK has used the same homologation for their full size karts since 2010 or 2012. If the product works, there’s not much of a reason to change it I suppose. Kart Republic is looking at it the same way evidently.
Has anyone here run a KR cadet chassis yet? If so any opinions on their cadet chassis? I’d be looking to run it in Briggs Cadet 4 strokes.
It’s pretty good in 206 cadet. Had 2 drivers in the top 4 at CKNA Grands.
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Good to know, thanks.
Make sense that’s way a lot of the 22 homolgation numbers are the same as previous years.
thanks
Anyone running a longer wheelbase on the KR2 chassis (bearing hangers flipped 180), it seems most are running shorter. We have a tall driver on harder compound tyres who lacks rear end grip on long sweepers - the longer w/b would help, right?
I have yet to try the longer wheelbase, but would recommend other things before going that route. What class/tire are we talking?