It’s all good, it’s not really a time/age sensitive topic… Plus I think I necro’d it when I moved the posts above.
Since we’re necroing this post, can you take a FA and make it into a FSA engine? I’ve been wanting to get an FSA engine just for fun, but I know nothing about them
Yeah they are more-or less identical. Primary difference is the carb size. Carb for FA has to be a 24mm butterfly, FSA can use up to 30mm slide. Ideally there would be port changes too, but often they would be made during the event for the track and relatively minor.
The bolt spacing for the two carbs is the same (Tillotson HL pattern), you may have to open up the inlet tract for it, but generally they are big enough to use a 30 with anyway. You could probably also use a super KF carb too.
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Yes and no, some of the FSA engines where very different from there equivalent FA engines. FSA wasn’t homologated and the regulations where freer. So I know of cases of FSA engines which looked like one engine on the outside but were a full copy of another engine on the inside.
But you’ll get most of the fun with the carb. Bore it 135cc for Formula K style fun 
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That sound!
Some good tech info here on 100’s
My winter project turned into a first sunny day project.
I was looking for a pre-2k birel last year for a recreation of a particular kart and came across this 02 homologation chassis on craigslist.
It was fitted with a KPV motor and came with a box of spares. In the box was an unused comer 351 100cc reed valve motor!
It’s on its first piston , everything seems not to be even run in!
I had my old carb sent over from home (Ireland), just need to source an exhaust now.
Looking forward to blowing the cobwebs off it in newcastle as soon as we can get out there.
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I thought I recognized the name. I think I knew your dad.
Nice. I had a Woltjer Comer 351 and 2 DAP T85s that I raced in Germany in the South German Championship last year of the aircooled engines. I also raced them the first year of the watercooled engines '00 but the water cookers were .2 faster on most tracks.
I would love to get one again.
Put a 29mm slide carb on my rotax dsc and got an extra 600rpm over my 24mm butterfly on the same gearing
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Talk about a deal. Chassis look practically brand new.
Also looks like a Q31, which was a great chassis!
No clutch, direct drive. You spin, you stall. Get out and push.
This is the thing for me. I personally think it made us better drivers too. Less bumping etc and you knew that if you spun not only was your race done, but you had to push start the damn thing too, which isn’t easy.
I have some K11B’s gathering dust in my garage, wanting to take them out, but my local track put in a ‘clutched karts only’ rule. I recall reading somewhere that you could put a JICA crank half in which would accommodate a clutch, but I’ve never seen any of those available anywhere. Then I thought, could I just switch crankshaft with another 100cc engine altogether? eg. out of a KA100? Or are there differences between engines in terms of crankshaft dimensions?
Don’t desecrate two K11bs man, please.
Where are you based?
KA100 stroke is different so using the crank is probably not worth it.
Inboard clutch driven from the ignition side is probably your best bet. This is how they do it in road racing laydowns. Problem is that the setup can almost cost as much as the engine at times.
Hello,
This is my new acquisition
I would appreciate if you guys shared any tips about this engine, specially related to carburation
I will race it just for fun. I dont expect max performance
I prefer to last longer
Also, after how much time I need to service the engine ?
Thank you
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Need to share that link
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Nice engine! Can you confirm the carburetor on the engine? I looks like a Tryton possibly.
The piston port engines like this (Vortex VA98 I think is what you have) tend to last a little longer as they are not as rev happy as the reeds/rotaries. If you keep peak RPM under 16,500 or so you should see good life on he engine assuming that you are starting from all fresh parts inside.
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Glorious noises! 
