There are some cable operated systems out there that are completely legal, but you don’t see them often.
I’ve looked into those, been told they are very finicky due to cables stretching. But I haven’t tried them. In the meantime, Seven came up with a new model that seems to be well designed, I’d be curious to try it out and compare. 500EUR price tag is a little steep for what it is though.
TheLab also sells the Motori 7 mechanical cable setup alongside its in-house D Shifter units, but it’s a pull cable design, so the lines stretch & thus require a replacement schedule, & they’re custom made for that unit. A design incorporating a push-pull cable would not need replacement. Just saying.
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I thought the paddle shifting system from Motori 7 is only good for Motori 7 engines.
I have paddle shifting on my KZ, made it myself, works perfectly, with cut-off, no need to lift the foot.
Supposed to be GTG for most all KZ motors. I’m just not a fan of the thin pull cables. A well oiled push-pull cable would make life simpler for the owner. There’s always a reliability rub with new products. Trying to maintain positive cash flow stream, I guess.
So that’s a rotary actuator vs linear?
(Not sure if rotary is the correct term)
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Interesting…both the Mechatron and TheLab (which I think it’s the best) units use a planetary gearbox, yours seems to be direct.
The only “linear” or solenoid-type is ProShift, which I don’t think can work on a kart. I tried (hard) to make it work, but there are issues on a kart that prevent its use, not a fault of the system itself, which I believe works great in bikes, cars etc
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I do have a gearbox, just like the Mechatron which is 36mm, mine is 42mm.
The problem with the Mechatron is that it’s impossible to program perfectly, so stays activated a bit too long and that gearbox will stop working, but you can buy the gearbox from Alibaba for very little money, around $15, or you can cushion the connecting rod with springs and then it will last a long time.
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Ha! now it makes sense, the gearbox was one of the weak points that thelab fixed and improved. Yours has a different configuration as it goes over the axle, but other than that very similar.
Nice setup!
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What & when did TL do?
Also, I’m just now noticing what looks like a Y split fitting going to the carb on your kart, which doesn’t make sense to me. Am I mistaken?
by “improved” I mean improving over the mechatron design. If I recall correctly, TL uses 5 planetary gears instead of 3, made of stainless steel. Super reliable, never heard of a failure.
Y fitting is indeed going into the carb. So from the pump outlet, you split the line in 2, one into the carb, one is the return, going through reservoir first, valve, then tank. What is your doubt?
No, I get that, I thought the cannister would be replacing the Y. This is the one I have:
I thought the “Y” format of the can would replace a traditional Y line fitting. Is the can used on yours of a different format?
yes, it’s a different type, I’m using a 1 in, 1 out type. I think you can route better this way if you are using the “new” style pump, whereas the 2 in one canister above works better with the round pump, which has a dedicated return line. I guess convenience more than anything
That’s a great looking kart Andy. Would you mind give me some pointers on how the fuel pump is connected? I am at a lost as they have more outlets compare to the round pump. I tried search it online and I have yet to find any instructions. TIA.
Sure! I’ll go through the standard plumbing.
Pulse line: connected to the bottom
Small breather/relief tube: bend and route under the engine
IN (see the arrow): connect the line coming from the tank
OUT (see the arrow) coming out of the pump into the top of a Y fitting. The bottom of that fitting goes into the carb inlet. The other top of the Y fitting goes back into the tank (return)
I advise fitting a small reservoir on top, get a 1 in, 1 out can and plumb it on the return line