Starting a 3D printing Karting business

I recently dove down the 3D printing rabbit hole as a way to learn a new skill during the winter. Both on the design side of things and the actual printing side of things. And, being that I’ve been around Karting for almost a decade now, I thought it’d be a good avenue to put my effort into. So I’ve been developing a few products that could make working on karts easier. Right now I have a Kart Republic, so most of the tooling will be catered towards them. But I’ll be trying to develop more for other chassis’ as I get my hands on them to get measurements.

First up is something simple. A beadlock tightening tool. I got sick of dealing with allen wrenches and tried a few other bit driver tools. They all just didn’t quite work right. So I whipped this up. Uses a 1/4 drive with a magnet pressed in to keep it in place. I have 3mm bits to go in it but you can put any 1/4 drive but (like an 8mm for Birel).

Next up are IAME exhaust block offs for KA and X30. I made a plate and a cap depending on which you want. The plate has steps built in so all you have to do is use the factory nut and snug it down to seal. The cap has a groove for an o-ring to get an air tight seal as well as a finger pull to make removal easier. I’ll be making some for KZ and Swift once I get my hands on their headers.

Since I don’t run a battery in my Mycron 5 (use a SmartyCam 3) I made a block off plate. These are already available in aluminum but this was quick and cheap for me to make myself.

This one is something I’ve spent most of my time on: KR camber caps. People have made caps for OTK to hide front end settings (I made one as well that I’ll offer), so I figured KR could use one. The design to get it to work was tricky. I’ll probably offer two versions; a magnet and a clip style. The front edge gets captured by a tab and then the rear is held down by either magnet or two tabs with release paddles. The magnet version is easier to place/remove but the tab version is basically impossible to fall off while still being pretty easy to remove.

Then I have KR full size and cadet alignment sweep tools. I got sick of the Sniper tripod always falling. These clip onto the steering shaft bracket and hold a grid so you can measure sweep easier and more repeatable.

And finally is a SmartyCam 3 filter adapter. SmartyCam is awesome for being bulletproof and data overlay. Where they fall short is image quality. Adding a circular polarizer helps tremendously for getting rich colors and less blown out highlights. So me and a friend came up with this filter adapter.

I have more things in the works right now but aren’t finalized yet: carb cap, OTK camber cap, KA rain cover, and some other random stuff. But I’m open to ideas for things that could be in demand. I started a website to make them available for sale: . Let me know what you guys think. I can do custom logos and have a few color options.


As a KR guy, I love it!

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This is very cool, may have to pick up some camber pill covers. One thing you may consider manufacturing is a flywheel lock tool for x30, ROK etc. I know there are some pretty decent ones out there but you have to take off the bendix cover. Having one what could stick directly into the teeth and lock would be really nice (especially on the ROK) their clutch locking tool is absolute poo.

My only concern with a flywheel tool is that 3D printed stuff doesn’t have a lot of sheer strength to it. You can orient the print to give it the best possible chance of not separating layers but I’d imagine it wouldn’t last long. Aluminum would probably be the best bet for something like that. But I agree, the ROK one sucks… Maybe I can talk to a friend who has the tooling about making one.

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Great ideas so far Zach, and I’m definitely looking forward to a KA and swift carb cover as well as the plastic caps I have always seem to crack.

Something I’ve always wanted and never found a good solution is a tool to help lock the steering when doing an alignment. Older OTKs you could clamp the plastic steering support with vice grips but the new design doesn’t allow that.

I can definitely try to come up with something for a steering wheel holder. I’ll take some measurements this week and see what I can do.

How does one order if they want things? Or did I miss it?

You can purchase through my Shopify page:

Maybe you said it, but what printer are you rocking?

Prusa MK3S+. Got it as a kit because why not? Already have 7D9H20M of print time and only had to tighten the X belt.

Nice! I’ve been thinking of getting another FDM printer. Mine met its demise on the move from NC to AZ. Let me do some digging, but you can have the model I made for the OTK chain guard hex nuts. Keeps the dumb OTK nuts from spinning and stripping over time. Maybe just send me a blemish one sometime. :wink:


Cool! Send me a DM with the file and I can get something out for you.

Water tube hooks, fuel pipe holders, go pro mounting accessories, steering column supports.

Lots of thing you could do.

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Here’s a couple of ideas. In the end I couldn’t justify the time to make and market the stuff.

Can I make a suggestion as well. For the x30 covers. Make a package. So you can add one item to a kart. As a shopper if I need both things. Adding two separate items is an annoyance.

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Thanks for the ideas both of you!

I can definitely do something like that. I still have a good amount of fine tuning to do on the website side of things to get it how I want it.

Wildkart makes a steering column support with a centering stake pin.

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Have to say I like the idea of a 3d printed one steering lock…
Easier for the driver to snap if it’s not removed prior to flight…


Here’s one I thought I’d do but I can’t find the time to do it. Its a front clip for the side pod frame for the OTK chassis. Replaces the plastic sleeve and plastic pin. Below is a rough sketch of the concept. The one thing I’d add is a tab to pull it off. It would take some playing with materials and thickness to get it right but it’s a part that can’t be machined easily and even plastic injection might be difficult. The problem with a good idea, not saying this good, but if its good OTK will just start making the part.

If you can fork over a few extra $$$ bills than I’d go with either an SLS or SLA printer. Generally much stronger parts, more consistent material properties (tension in the z axis tends to be closer) and also has a more finished look. They do require a little more work though, and some SLA resins can be smelly