Thanks for the sanity check, I ordered Snipers to try to fix the issue on my own. I have new spares spindles and a spare column, maybe I will change the column and spindles and try to align everything from scratch.
The mechanic gave me a ballpark alignment using a tape measure. I really have no idea whether I can trust that.
Axle placement is fine, spindles look okay and are not apparently bent, wheels are fine, bearings seem fine. Will post pictures to see if anyone notices anything.
Here are some snaps, maybe someone can see something out of whack:
Steering columnās bent. Put a straightedge against it to confirm how far off it is.
Front ride height is in the low position. Were you running it this way previously? Iāve had chassis that definitely scrape the pavement when the front is lowered, so it might be worth changing back to middle. Making this change is also going to affect the toe.
Never changed front ride height. The only difference this past weekend was -10lbs of ballast and made changes to rear track width.
Mechanic noticed that, but didnāt think it was enough to cause the whacky settings. I have a new spare and will change if I decide to just start from scratch on the front end.
We have a double header this weekend and Iām not sure what is a bigger risk, rebuilding everything myself, having never done a front end alignment, or trusting the tape measure alignment that is on there now. The amount of the thread left on the tie rod ends looks different side to sideā¦
Any idea what a base front end setup should be?
What class and track?
Well it would be a bit pointless to go out and run it as it is, since you have a double-header and youāre going to roast your tires if you donāt fix it. I would say go to YouTube and check out Power Republicās video on front-end alignment and give it a go yourself and see if you can fix the issue.
It really isnāt difficult to align the front end if you have the lasers.
United in Baltimore, LO206 senior.
Well the mechanic did āget it in the ballparkā using a tape measureā¦ I will try myself with the lasers and replace the column and spindles if I cannot get it in the window with the current components on.
Some others on this thread have mentioned having the same kart. What length are your left and right tie rods? Yousef, with that information, you can compare to what you have. Also, do you have new spindles? You could line up a new one with what you have or if not compare the two that you have to see if they are out.
It sounds like you are a little unsure of your mechanical ability. A few suggestionsā¦ Take pics before you disassemble and pay attention to the order that parts are removed (where does the washer go what side is the nut on, etc) . My other advice is to do one thing at a time. If you have a new steering shaft, do that, then move on to something else. Righty tight, lefty loosy except the tie rod ends, one end, usually with a mark, is left hand thread and the opposite is true.
It looks like the right tie rod assembly has run out of adjustment, as the rod ends are bottomed out. There should be some exposed thread. But first put a straight steering shaft in and check tie rods for straightness
Hard to truly tell from the pictures but it looks like it currently has positive toe. Put the snipers on there and see where the lasers are currently pointing. If theyāre behind the blocks, youāre toeād in too much and because the threads on the tie rods are fully pulled in, you wonāt be able to remove that toe in. If thatās the case, extend your tie rods and go into the outboard spindle arm holes, this will allow you to begin to shorten them and remove the excessive toe. Just my initial observation.
This and Larryās comment support the mechanicās observation that the tie rods are too long to get the front end aligned properly.
When he put the lasers on, they were behind the blocks.
The setup guide here says toe should be 4, which I take to mean 2 degrees of positive toe on each side.
I bought the next size smaller tie rods (270mm) along with the Snipers. I will try to rebuild the front end with my new column and new spindles if necessary. Thanks everyone for your input.
Then simply move the outer heim joints to the outside holes on the spindle arms. That should allow you to have enough threads showing to make your adjustments and get the lasers in range again. 4mm toe out seems a bit much and will make the kart very dartyā¦.Iād recommend 2 degrees overall (1mm per side) to start and adjust from there if necessary based on the turn in and handling.
Great, thank you this is exactly the information I need. I will try to get it to 2 degrees overall with the tie rods and spindles I have, after replacing the column. If I canāt get them aligned by moving to the outboard hole on the spindle I will try replacing the rods, then the spindles if that doesnāt work.
Yousef:
You have been given a variety of good, practical areas to check out. My only real advice is just donāt assume you did or did not previously do any of the things suggested by any of the responders.
I wish I had a dime for every time I have remembered things one way, but in actuality my memory was not accurate. As both the Spock and Sherlock Holmes characters said, āWhen you eliminate the impossible, whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth.ā My opinion is you are not chasing a couple of millimeters hereāthe cause of your problems should be fairly evident. Good luck!
Out of curiosity, are your tie rods the same length ? You might want to check another F4K and see if the tie rod lengths are unequal. The factory tie rods on my F4K are 270 mm and 280 mm. The upper steering shaft support is slightly offset to the right. When correctly adjusted for toe out, the amount of thread showing on the heim joints are equal. Just a thought.