They are currently the same length 265mm. Do you know if an FK4 is the same chassis as an MT01? My chassis has an MT01 decal but I’ve been told they are the same and they look exactly the same.
Sorry, not aware of the distinction. Appear to be a lot more Intrepids in Canada than in the US and their internet presence is somewhat lacking. Good luck. You’ll get it straightened out.
@Yousef_Khalil My friend Charlie is recommending you try the snipers on there with the tie rods removed. Place the snipers on the stub axle as close to the outside as possible near the threads, not on them but just at the ends. This will probably require the help of a second person as you align the spindles and see where the lasers point to. It will help determine if the chassis is possibly bent or perhaps the stub axles themselves. That’s how he checked my used kart when I first got it and fortunately I was good to go. He hasn’t steered (no pun intended) me wrong with his guidance so far and is a wealth of knowledge. He’s seen this post but isn’t a member (yet). He has helped me tremendously getting my handling sorted out since I got my kart. We need experienced guys like him on here. Keep us posted on what you find and what you did when you resolve it. It helps the community if someone else comes across a similar problem.
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We have got to get Charlie to join! Was thinking about that the other day!
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I couldn’t agree more 
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Thanks for this, I don’t understand what you mean by “align the spindles and see where the lasers point to.” How can I align them if there is no tie rod attached?
Move the spindles by hand, thus two people might make this easier.
Ohhh, got it! To eliminate tie rod length as a factor. Thank you!
Intrepid MT-01 is an older chassis built by SKM (Intrepid) circa 2010. There are alot of differences to a Freedom F4K. That being said, it should still be a good chassis with the right setup in 206 as its actually very similar to my 2010 SKM built (Trackmagic). The front has no camber/caster adjustments as built you will want to change that to better setup for 206.
I would remove front bar, move ride height to middle, narrow rear axle to 1000mm (not including hubs) and widen front to maximum.
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From what I know of intrepids and the MT01 is that its a full 32mm chassis. You stated you were 20lbs lighter. Did you take weight off the front?
Judging by your photos, you are definitely too narrow up front. You have 1 5mm spacer and in reality that chassis need to be in the 20-25mm wide. Leave the bar in.
Set your front ride height to neutral, then set your toe out 2mm. (1mm each side). If you get odd camber readings from the lasers, you know something is bent. However, with a bent steering column you may not get an accurate reading when doing your caster sweep.
Is Baltimore a track with a bunch of tight turns and fast switch backs or does it have alot of fast, flowy turns?
Keep in mind that these older karts are tuned slightly different than the newer modern softer chassis. It’s almost backwards. My older intrepid like yours drives like a dream with the front wide, the rear around 54-54-1/2 and both front and rear torsion bars in. Put the rear bar in, you might be surprised, especially if you are fighting a hopping condition.
Sorry for the rambling. I get overly eager when it comes to the older SKM style karts!
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To be fair, a 2010 SKM front spindles are much narrower then a newer Intrepid. My max width on my Trackmagic is only 1 big/1small spacer out on my 2020 Intrepid. I actually run hub spacers on my 2010 when running 206 to add even more additional width otherwise its just a dog. (I did finish 3rd in a regional without additional hub spacer on trackmagic)
I have no idea what length is on OP spindles but I now run my Intrepid front at full width. Its absolutely no questions asked faster in 206.
Thanks to everyone that has contributed. I was able to align the steering sweep and set the toe to 2mm as suggested. I only replaced the steering column, which was bent.
The main issue I seem to have now is that the camber is so positive that it’s is just off the sniper grids. There is no adjustment on the mounting point for the spindles as you mentioned.
I have to assume that the camber settings have always been this way, which leads me to believe that the toe settings got out of whack and caused my initial issue.
The next main question is how do I fix the camber settings? Is it just a matter of buying a Sniper adjustable pill kit?
I should mention this is also after moving to outboard holes on spindles so thanks for that suggestion!
Yousef, I don’t own an Intrepid but to have the camber reading off the grid, the chassis might be bent. I wouldn’t quite jump to this conclusion yet, unless it’s been a good accident.
Judging from your earlier photos looking at your pills, the kingpin looks neutral and there should be very little camber, maybe 1 or 2 mm.
It may well be, it’s a used kart and my first one. No major incidents under my ownership. The shop at this track won’t put it on the table until after this weekend’s double header.
For what it’s worth, the readings look similarly off on both sides.
It’s uncommon to have both sides bent in a way that would result in positive camber on both. If both sides have positive camber readings that are to the extent where they’re off the sniper grid then I’d be willing to wager that at some point the chassis was fitting with replacement spindles with incorrect kingpin inclination. Incorrect KPI will directly affect the camber reading. For example, you may have 11* spindles but the chassis actually requires 10* spindles.
Sometimes you can fit pils to correct the difference, but generally one pil won’t be enough to correct the 10mm+ per side that you need.
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to be clear here with your mounting of the Snipers, due to the taper on those spindles you’ll need to remove the hubs and mount the snipers on the “stub” axle portion of the spindle… You’ve removed the spindles and placed the snipers on the stub axle portion for measurement?
that taper could represent a perceived positive camber situation
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When you say stub, is that the part the hub actually covers? Or is it the threaded part the large nut goes on?
The smooth shaft that the hub slides onto, not the threaded end.